Winter refused to leave, filling Lisbon’s streets with cold wind and a persistent drizzle. Stepping into Ofício, a restaurant near Chiado, felt like a welcome reprieve. Stevie Wonder’s voice filled the dining room, while a soft light washed over the white walls and tables, creating a sense of warmth.

Ofício’s seasonal menu revisits Portuguese classics through a contemporary lens, with a subtle Japanese influence. The restaurant is now led by chef Maurício Varela, a native of Aveiro who trained in fine-dining kitchens across Brazil and Spain. At Ofício, he is not chasing stars, but something more lasting: a place guests return to for comfort food prepared with care and excellent ingredients.

The service was gracious and efficient. We began with two Japanese-inspired appetizers: a delicate horse mackerel tartare on a shiso leaf, and a sea bream tartare, lightly dressed with chive oil and citrus. The meal then turned to Portuguese tradition, with a dish from the Algarve: milhos fritos (fried polenta), served with stewed turnip greens and cheese from São Jorge Island.

For the main course, we sampled two dishes. The first was smoked skate, enriched with lobster butter and a celery ragù. The second was a hearty codfish rice.

Dessert featured a trio of cheeses, the highlight a creamy goat cheese made by João Prata in Maçussa.

We left ready to face winter’s last outburst, already planning to return in spring.

Ofício is located at Rua Nova da Trindade 11, Lisbon, click here for their website.