Beaches

Tasca da Ti’ Augusta

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Winemakers always seem to know the best places to eat. So, when Afonso and Teresa Marques, from the wonderful Vale da Capucha winery, recommended Tasca da Ti’ Augusta, a rustic restaurant perched on the sand at Porto Dinheiro beach, we added it to our list.

The tasca dates to the 1940s, when Augusta began serving food to the fishermen of Porto Dinheiro before they went to sea and buying their freshly caught fish when they returned.

Her cooking gradually turned the modest beachside tavern into a local institution. After her death, the restaurant passed to her children, Alice and Fausto, who took turns running it during the summers, and later to another Maria Augusta, a talented cook who had long helped Alice. Today, the restaurant is run by her daughter Alexandra Fanha and the extended family. It opens only from June to September.

When we called to reserve a table, we were asked to choose in advance between the two main dishes: monkfish rice (arroz de tamboril) and fish stew (caldeirada). Naturally, we ordered both.

The restaurant is only a few meters from the ocean, wedged between two massive sandstone rocks dating from the late Jurassic period. The space between them has been enclosed with bits of brickwork, canvas and fishing nets. An old wooden door bears the scars of countless winters, when the sea washes over the place. The floor is made of cement, and a corrugated roof provides protection from sun and rain. The decoration consists mostly of nets, buoys and other remnants of fishing life.

There is something wonderfully improvised about the angular architecture. It reminded us, perhaps absurdly, of Frank Gehry’s house in Santa Monica. We wondered what Gehry would make of Ti’ Augusta.

We visited on one of those rare days with almost no wind, when the Atlantic turns a deep, saturated blue. The small beach beside the restaurant accumulates banks of seaweed, and the smell of algae, salt and iodine hangs in the air, whetting our appetite.

At the entrance, a few fishermen were drinking glasses of wine. They looked as though they had wandered out of a Marcel Pagnol film and been shipwrecked on the Portuguese coast.

Inside, the restaurant was packed with locals. Long tables held families and groups of friends, all talking loudly at once. For a moment, we wondered whether authenticity might be slightly overrated. Then huge pots were carried to the tables. The noise subsided. Suddenly everyone was enjoying the food.

The service at Ti’ Augusta is friendly but assertive. When a customer asked for salt, the waitress placed a one-kilogram bag on the table and informed him that the rice was already properly seasoned. Suitably chastened, he proceeded to eat it as served.

We watched the fishing boats coming and going from the little harbor—Porto Dinheiro, literally “Money Port,” remains a working fishing port.

An enormous serving spoon sat on our table, waiting to be used. First came the fish rice. The rice was seriously addictive, and the monkfish was perfectly cooked, swimming in an intensely flavorful tomato-and-fish broth.

The caldeirada was a revelation. The traditional version of this Portuguese fishermen’s stew is deceptively difficult to cook well. Clams are placed at the bottom of the pot, followed by layers of potatoes, onions, tomatoes, peppers and different fish. Everything cooks together. The romance of the method is undeniable; unfortunately, so is the tendency for the potatoes, shellfish and at least some of the fish to be overcooked.

Not here. Everything arrived at precisely the right point: the large shrimp, the clams, the potatoes and three different fish: conger eel (safio), monkfish, and skate. We suspect that the different components were cooked separately and brought together at the end.

The sauce, made only with tomato, onion, and red pepper, had a glorious golden-red color. We appreciated the absence of green pepper, which so often gives the sauce an unappetizing grey cast. Alongside came a large plate piled with slices of fried bread, ready to absorb every last drop of the sauce.

The portions at Ti’ Augusta are monumental, and regulars arrive with containers for the inevitable leftovers. Seeing that we were novices, the restaurant supplied one. The next day, our leftovers became a magnificent fish soup.

The temperature by the sea was so pleasant that nobody seemed in any hurry to leave. Around us, people lingered over slices of melon, small pots of chocolate mousse, and plates of egg pudding scented with lemon.

The only stars at Tasca da Ti’ Augusta are the ones in the night sky over Porto Dinheiro beach. But the food shines.

Tasca da Ti’ Augusta is located in the Porto Dinheiro beach. You can call 919200397 to make reservations.

Alta, a dream come true

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Alta, a new restaurant perched on a cliff overlooking Praia da Areia Branca, offers mesmerizing views of the Berlenga island and the endless sea. But it was hard to pay attention to the view once the tempting appetizers arrived at our table. First, a plump burrata adorned with an enticing tomato jam. Then, marinated mackerel seasoned with salicornia and green grapes—a culinary dance of saltiness, sweetness, and acidity. Next, fabulous codfish cakes–light, crisp, and full of flavor. Finally, a stunning lobster salad beautifully served in its shell. 

In a blatant plea for attention, the sun began to set, painting the sky with brilliant yellow hues. We admired the spectacle, but our focus shifted to the main courses: mouthwatering seafood rice and a succulent roasted pork belly. The menu tempted us with many other delights, such as grilled fish and codfish confit. The meal ended with a taste of sweetness from slices of chocolate and ricotta cakes.

Alta has become popular since opening on June 10, so it’s best to make a reservation. But even waiting for a table is a pleasure–we can sit on the esplanade drinking an aperitif and taking in the magnificent vistas.

Chef Julie Marteleira and her sister Jennifer moved from Toronto to Praia da Areia Branca to create Alta. Even though they were born in Canada, this venture feels like a homecoming. Their parents, Joana and Joaquim, got married in Abelheira, a quaint village you can see from the restaurant.  Julie dreamed of one day working in Portugal. We’re all lucky that her dream has come true. 

Alta is located at Alameda a Ver-o-Mar, no 1, Praia da Areia Branca, Lourinhã, tel. 261 422 310.

Porto Côvo

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There are so many seashore towns in Portugal that it’s hard to single one out. But Porto Côvo, an old fisherman’s hamlet on Alentejo’s Vicentine coast, deserves special mention. It is blessed with sandy beaches bathed by turquoise waters and a view to the enigmatic Peachtree Island where two forts, now in ruins, once kept pirates at bay. 

In the late 18th century, Jacinto Fernandes Bandeira, a successful businessman, bought a vast stretch of land in Porto Côvo. He hired an architect to draw plans to populate the area and turn it into a significant harbor. The king rewarded these efforts by granting him, in 1805, the title of Baron of Porto Côvo da Bandeira. 

Bandeira’s plan was inspired by the grid system used to rebuild downtown Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake. The construction of Porto Côvo did not adhere closely to it, but its sense of geometry prevailed, giving the town a harmonious feeling.

In the center, the farmers market brims with fresh fruits from land and sea. Local restaurants turn these products into appetizing meals. Our favorite is Lamelas, a place where chef Ana Moura serves veritable culinary pearls. We owe these riches to Baron Jacinto Fernandes Bandeira who first recognized the beauty of Porto Côvo.

The Paimogo fort

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There are two ways to reach the fort of Her Lady of the Angels of Paimogo. During low tide, we can walk on the white beach sand while the cool sea waters bathe our feet. We can always go by land, through rolling hills painted with sepia colors that contrast with the shimmering blue of the sea. Either way, the fort awaits us at the end of our journey. 

Built in 1674, it maintains its original architecture. It has two spacious rooms on each side of the main door. In the back, a chamber with thick walls and a vaulted ceiling stored ammunition. Side stairs lead to a terrace with magnificent views. In the distance, we see the Berlenga island surrounded by the infinite sea. Below, the bay of Paimogo offers shelter from the storms.  

The fort was part of a line of defense that stretched from Cascais to Peniche, protecting the coast against pirates and other aggressors. It was used in 1808 during the Napoleonic invasions and again in 1832 during the civil war that pitched two royal brothers, Pedro and Miguel, against each other. Since then, the fort has retired from military pursuits. It is a peaceful place where we can marvel at the beauty of the land and the splendor of the sea.

The Paimogo fort is located 3.5 km north of Praia da Areia Branca.

The silence of the wind

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The Japanese call it “ma,” the silence between notes that lends musical phrases more meaning. We can hear these same silences on the seashore. 

Most of the time the wind blows on the coast, flowing from where the air is cold to where it is warm.  But there are instances in which sea and land have the same temperature, so the wind can rest. In these perfect moments, everything is in balance and at peace.

Dining with Ana Moura in Porto Côvo

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We’ve been following chef Ana Moura since her spectacular debut at Cave 23 in Lisbon. So, when we heard she had opened a restaurant in Porto Côvo, a fishermen village on the coast of Alentejo, we went on a pilgrimage to see how her cooking has evolved.

Ana called the restaurant Lamelas, after her mother’s family name. The Lamelas have lived in Porto Côvo for generations and Ana spent her childhood summers there. 

The restaurant has a beautiful terrace overlooking a small harbor.  It was there that our lunch began, with glasses filled with rosé from a local winery called Herdade da Cebolal. Marta, our genial server, brought small plates with appetizing starters: Alentejo bread with an orange butter made with pork fat and red pepper paste; almece, a local cheese, topped with cured fish; a salad made with hake eggs that were so fresh we felt as if the sea had moved closer to our table.

Marta filled our glasses with a delectable white from Herdade do Cebolal to prepare our palates for the next dish: a luscious abrótea (a local fish) with clams, green sauce, and toasted bread. Next, there was a rice made with robalo (seabass), pargo (snapper), and shrimp. We admired the perfection of the confection, all rice grains perfectly cooked, all flavors in harmony. 

Migas, a bread-based preparation, accompanied pork ribs and a purslane salad. It was an explosion of flavor that paired well with the grand reserve red from another local winery, Herdade da Carochinha. 

The meal ended with sweetness from a chocolate mousse lightly seasoned with fleur de sel, a cheese cake, and sopa dourada (golden soup). 

Throughout the meal, we could see Ana cooking in the kitchen. She was in a state of intense concentration, tasting everything and making last minute adjustments.  

We lingered at the table drinking coffee and trying some local brandies made from medronho, waiting for Ana to finish the service. When she came to greet us, we told her that the meal had been unforgettable. She blushed with humility and spoke with passion about her team and the local producers she is working with. 

We asked Ana whether there were any other local restaurants we should try. She praised the cooking of many local chefs and we left with a long list of suggestions. 

We said our goodbyes and started to research Ana’s list. But we had found an epicurean paradise and it made no sense to leave it. We called Lamelas and made lunch and dinner reservations for the following day. It was an inspired decision. We tried many more gastronomical jewels: a stunning açorda made with sole, magnificent mullets, perfect cuttlefish, delicate abrótea livers, and delicious “carabineiro” shrimps. Just when we thought we had sampled the whole menu, Ana sent something new for us to try: pasteis de massa tenra (turnovers) with a boulliabaisse filling. They were fantastic! 

There’s an old Arab tale about someone who travels the world searching for a treasure, only to find it in the courtyard of their childhood home. Ana traveled the world to apprentice in great restaurants. And now, in the beach of her childhood summers, she created a culinary treasure.  

Lamelas is located at Rua Candido da Silva 55a in Porto Covo, tel. 924060426.

The enchanting Costa Nova

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Composit Costa Nova

In the days before refrigeration, salting was commonly used to preserve fish for future consumption. Codfish has a low fat content, so it does not become rancid when salted. This trait enticed Portuguese fishermen to venture as far as Newfoundland in search of cod. Most of these adventurous fishermen came from a small town in the Aveiro region called Ilhavo.

The captains of the fishing boats moved to Lisbon, the place from where the boats departed. But they kept a vacation home on the banks of the Ria de Aveiro, the waterway  where fresh and sea water mix. These homes are refurbished “palheiros,” the shacks painted with bright stripes where the fisherman used to store their equipment.

Other villages like Mira and Barra once had beautiful rows of palheiros. But these were gradually demolished to build modern homes. In Costa Nova, the traditional architecture was preserved. Large parts of the water-facing Marginal avenue have remained almost unchanged for the past 150 years. It is this postcard view of a time gone by that makes Costa Nova so enchanting.

A wonderful Summer

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Sunset

It’s been an unusual Summer. For the wind has been fickle, sometimes blowing hard, other times refusing to show up for work. And we tried to cook with sea water because of a vague remembrance that Marcel Pagnol said that it was the right thing to do if you lived near the sea. Sardines were thin at first but then they gained weight and we could marinate them in olive oil and vinegar with sweet August onions cut in a half-moon shape. It’s been a wonderful Summer!