Fuso, a landmark restaurant

Located in Arruda dos Vinhos, 20 miles north of Lisbon, Fuso is a restaurant from another era. It opened its doors, in the space once used as a winery and a tavern, on March 9, 1973.

The concept for the restaurant was created by Fernando Guerra Cardoso, a successful car salesman who enjoyed socializing over food. He persuaded his friend, Armindo Mera Dominguez, to open a restaurant serving oversized portions that encouraged people to bring their friends. Today, the restaurant is run by the great-grandchildren of both founders.

Diogo Coucello, Fernando’s great-grandson, leads a team of 30 waiters and kitchen staff, ensuring seamless service for up to 300 guests. Reservations are essential—Fuso is always full. 

Since 1973, the menu has remained unchanged, focusing on two signature dishes: charcoal-grilled codfish and bone-in rib steak. Your meal can begin with delectable appetizers such as prosciutto, savory sausages, or grilled shrimp and end with various desserts, ranging from roasted apples to egg puddings and chocolate cake. But the main attractions are grilled codfish and steak.

You can find these dishes in many other restaurants, but Fuso’s renditions are exceptional. The codfish, imported from Norway, is meticulously selected for its succulence and rich flavor. The rib steak, consistently tender and tasty, has been sourced from the same butcher since the restaurant’s inception.

Fuso’s rustic décor has remained untouched since its opening. The restaurant’s name refers to the fuso, or spindle—a large wooden screw—attached to the wine press that still occupies the center of the dining room. The entrance is dominated by towering wine barrels made from exotic wood and a grand charcoal grill glowing with embers.

In a world where everything feels fleeting, it’s a privilege to eat at a restaurant that has been a gathering place for friends who love food for over half a century.

Fuso is located at Rua Cândido dos Reis, 94, Arruda dos Vinhos, tel. 263 975 121, 263 978 547.

A codfish restaurant

If you’re yearning for codfish, we know a restaurant that will satisfy your lust. Called Sal na Adega, it is part of Adega Mãe, a winery in Torres Vedras that belongs to Ribeiralves, a company famous for its salted cod. 

Sal na Adega has a spacious dining room that overlooks serene vineyards. A large round window gives us a glimpse of the kitchen’s hustle and bustle. 

You can accompany the meal with any wine from the winery’s shop by paying a modest cork fee. The menu lists many meat and fresh fish preparations, but the star offering is salted cod. Codfish usually pairs with red wine, but if you’re feeling adventurous, we suggest a white wine made from Vital. There are only a few wineries making wine with this grape varietal. The results are exciting, and the wine is a great companion for the fish.

Our meal started with codfish cakes, a litmus test passed with flying colors–the cakes were crispy, rich, and flavorful. Then we tried a trio of cod preparations. First, a codfish loin topped with crunchy prosciutto and onion in a vinegar sauce called escabeche. Second, grilled codfish neck, the most succulent part of the fish because of its abundance of collagen. It is an epic preparation, up there in the pantheon of best codfish we have ever tried. Third, a delicious codfish in coriander rice.

The dessert menu includes many temptations and one irresistible choice: the famous bean pastries from Serra da Vila in Torres Vedras. 

The meal ends with a pleasant surprise: a 10 percent discount on the wines purchased at the wine shop. We went to Sal na Adega for the codfish, and came back with some great wine.

Sal na Adega is located at Estrada Municipal 554, Torres Vedras, tel. 261-950-105.