Put yourself in the shells of the “berbigão.” You are constantly being outshined by your cousins the clams. Clams star in famous Portuguese dishes such as “carne the porco à Alentejana” (pork with clams). Berbigão gets roles in minor culinary productions such as “arroz de berbigão,” a rice used to accompany other dishes. But forget what the critics say. Cook berbigão with a little olive oil and garlic and you will feel its star power.