When we asked our son, a chef by trade, what he wanted for his birthday, he answered without hesitation: lunch at Mercearia Gadanha in Estremoz. And so, on the day when we celebrated the arrival of the treasured gift that is our son, we got on the road to Estremoz. 

Chef Michelle Marques welcomed us into her restaurant with her radiant smile. She filled our glasses with Mainova, a white wine made with a harmonious trinity of Portuguese varietals (Arinto, Antão Vaz, and Verdelho). It has a wonderful acidity and a citrus aroma that kept us great company through the meal. 

Our lunch began with Gadanha’s classic lamb croquettes served with garlic confit mayonnaise. Each bite reminded us why this dish had long been a favorite.

Next came the quail, stewed to perfection and served with a rich demi-glace, an intense apple sauce, and some of the most flavorful potato chips we’ve ever had—thin, crispy, and seasoned with just a whisper of oregano.

Then came wild mushrooms with a soft-cooked egg, and a crumble of alheira sausage, each mouthful an explosion of umami.

The next course was a set of stunning cação pastries. Never was this fish so prized in Alentejo so wonderfully cooked. The pastry was crunchy, allowing the delicate flavors of the fish to shine.

Another favorite followed: the exquisite codfish mille-feuille, a combination of crispy Alentejo toasts, chickpea foam, codfish confit, and black-pork prosciutto. This dish alone is worth the journey to Gadanha.

The next course, black pork and cockles (berbigão) is a delicious reimagination of a traditional Alentejo recipe: pork and clams. The savory part of the meal ended with duck rice brimming with flavor.

We indulged in three desserts: a reconstructed apple with pennyroyal (poejo) and sheep milk ice cream, a medley of chocolate and hazelnut textures, and a chocolate and coffee delight with vanilla ice cream.

Michelle was born in Brazil, but she has lived in Portugal for so long that she lost her Brazilian accent. In its place she gained a culinary voice so original that it is worth traveling the distance to celebrate life’s best moments at her restaurant.

Gadanha is located at Largo Dragões de Olivença, 84 A in Estremoz, tel. 268 333 262. Click here for their website.