Wine

António Magalhães, keeper of Douro secrets

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You might not be familiar with António Magalhães, the chief viticulturist of the famed Taylor-Fladgate port house, but if you enjoy exceptional port wines, you’ve likely experienced the fruits of his labor. António has worked for more than three decades in the rolling terraces of the Douro Valley. Throughout this time, nature has gradually revealed to him some of its winemaking secrets. Patience has been essential in this apprenticeship. It can take many years to grasp the impact of viticulture choices on wine production.

António is known for his thoughtful character and gentle disposition. But beneath this demeanor lies a powerful intellect–he has the rigor of a scientist, the curiosity of a historian, and the eloquence of a poet. He believes in combining scientific methods with traditional wisdom and has a deep reverence for the mysteries of winemaking. 

In collaboration with a statistician, António sought to unravel some of these mysteries, analyzing climate data since 1941 to identify weather patterns associated with vintage years, the finest for port wine production. They discovered that these years share three characteristics. First, the average temperature in July is less than 24.5 degrees Celsius. Second, two-thirds of the rain falls during the dormancy period (from November to February) and one-third during the growth period (from March to June). Third, there is less than 20 millimeters of rain in September. A small amount of rain at harvest time helps refine the grapes, says António, but too much rain in September fills the grapes with water and promotes fungal diseases. To António’s delight, they found that exceptional vintage years often deviate from the norm in unique ways, a testament to the magic of port wine.

Another facet of this magic is the art of blending. The Douro’s diverse microclimates provide winemakers with a rich palette to adapt to the annual variations in weather. They skillfully blend diverse varietals from vineyards with different locations, altitudes, and sun exposure. António has a profound understanding of the art of blending grounded on his comprehensive knowledge of the Douro subregions—the rain-soaked Baixo Corgo, the moderately wet Cima Corgo, and the arid Douro Superior. 

He has studied how grape varietals were adapted to counter the crisis created by phylloxera, an American insect that decimated European vines in the second half of the 19th century. The blight reached the Douro region in 1862-63 and became a severe problem in 1872. Farmers noticed that Mourisco, a varietal with lackluster enological properties, was the most resistant to phylloxera. For this reason, Mourisco was crossed with Touriga Nacional, considered the finest pre-phylloxera varietal, to create Touriga Francesa. The name, which means French Touriga, was likely chosen to honor the French school of viticulture and its contribution to creating phylloxera-resistant varietals. 

António also analyzed the various types of American vine roots brought from places like Texas to the Douro Valley to graft European vines and increase their resilience to phylloxera.

Since 1992, António has worked closely with David Guimaraens, the chief enologist at Taylor-Fladgate. Every year, António and David write several letters to the farmers who produce grapes for Taylor-Fladgate, offering insights into the vines’ current conditions and the most effective viticulture practices to respond to them. This educational effort is vital to the quality of the Taylor-Fladgate ports.

Concerned with the impact of heavy rainfall on soil erosion, António and David developed a new model for the terraces where the vines are planted. They had an epiphany while visiting the Benziger family, a biodynamic wine producer in California. It started to rain torrentially, and as they ran for shelter, they noticed that the rain was running with them. They realized that this kind of drainage, created by a three percent gradient, is what the Douro Valley needs.

António and David asked earthmoving companies to find a bulldozer narrow enough to fit in the terraces and capable of creating a three percent inclination. One of the companies found a second-hand machine used in rice plantations in the south of Portugal. The company’s manager called to say that the machine had an unusual device. “Bring it along,” said António. It turned out that the device was a laser that greatly simplified the task of creating a three percent slope. They later learned that the Benziger farmland had been graded by Chinese workers, who were likely to be familiar with the three percent inclination used in rice cultivation.

The Taylor-Fladgate farms stand out for their beauty because António is a sculptor of landscapes. He knows that cultivating a vineyard, planting a tree, or building a stone wall alters the scenery, and like an artist, he selects colors that harmonize, proportions that feel human, rhythms that please the eye.

António is passionate about researching the history of the Douro region. He often visits Torre do Tombo, a vast national archive with documents spanning nine centuries of Portuguese history. The writings of Álvaro Moreira da Fonseca (the creator of the vine quality scoring system still in use), the Baron of Fladgate, John Croft, José Costa Lima, A. Guerra Tenreiro, and many other Douro luminaries are his constant companions.

His extensive knowledge of history gives him a unique appreciation for the sacrifices made by generations of workers who have toiled in the Douro region. This understanding is evident in how António interacts with the people he manages. His sincere appreciation for their efforts earns him the loyalty and trust of his collaborators.

Today, António Magalhães retires as Taylor-Fladgate’s chief viticulturist. This milestone marks the beginning of a new chapter. We hope that António can now find the time to write a treatise on viticulture so that, as the climate continues to change, his erudition can illuminate the future of the Douro Valley.

The wondrous old brandies of Quinta do Rol

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Lourinhã is one of the few regions demarcated to produce high-quality brandy, known in Portugal as “aguardente vínica.” Like Cognac and Armagnac, Lourinhã imposes strict rules on brandy production to guarantee quality and authenticity. This dedication to excellence has led locals to affectionately nickname the region Lourinhac.

While many local grapes are not ideal for table wine, they are perfect for brandy. The fertile soils yield grapes with higher water content. The proximity to the ocean moderates the temperature, resulting in less maturation and lower alcohol concentration. The cool nights enhance the grapes’ acidity. This acidity helps the delicate fruit and floral notes of the wine carry over into the brandy and provides a stable foundation for the aging process.

Quinta do Rol is the main distillery in Lourinhã. In 1995, Carlos de Mello Ribeiro, an accomplished manager, acquired the estate from his family and invested in producing premium brandy. He had the attributes essential for success: capital, managerial skill, and patience—high-quality brandy requires 12 years of aging to develop its depth of flavor, delicate vanilla aroma, and seductive amber color. What he lacked was a detailed knowledge of the production process. To fill this gap, Carlos and his enologist, Pedro Correia, traveled to Armagnac and Cognac to learn from French producers, who generously shared their secrets.

Upon returning to Portugal, Carlos committed to using traditional methods without shortcuts. He installed a copper distillation engine like those used in Armagnac and planted Tália grapes, the varietal favored in France for brandy production under the name Ugni Blanc. Since then, he has accumulated 30 years’ worth of precious brandies, aged first in new oak and then in used oak barrels. 

The region’s freshness also lends itself to producing interesting white wines. Carlos crafts a wonderful sparkling wine with Arinto and Pinot Noir and a great white wine with Arinto and Chardonnay. He also makes a delicious Moscatel.

The first king of Portugal, Dom Afonso Henriques, granted the Lourinhã region to a French knight called Jourdain, who fought valiantly in the conquest of Lisbon. The knight would likely be proud of Lourinhac’s success in the world of brandy.

Quinta do Vale Meão

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One of the Douro Valley’s ultimate experiences is visiting Quinta do Vale Meão. While the estate is not generally open to the public, it does receive a few small groups each year. You can email in advance to inquire whether they can host you.

Vale Meão was the last estate planted by the legendary Dona Antónia Ferreira. It was a colossal endeavor: 300 hectares of wild bush were converted into vineyards and olive groves. Dona Antónia invested in the remote Vale Meão against the advice of her general manager because of its unique characteristics. It is located on a geological fault with three different types of soil: schist, granite, and sedimentary clay deposited by the river. The weather is dry, as clouds rarely cross the Marvão mountain, reducing the prevalence of vine diseases like oidium.

The best way to reach Vale Meão is by taking the train from Pinhão to Pocinho. There are usually few passengers, so you can choose a seat by the riverside and enjoy a glorious hour beholding the Douro river in all its splendor. The train rushes through bridges and tunnels carved into granite hills, but the river is seldom out of sight.

You go by Cachão da Valeira, a treacherous spot before dams regulated the water flow. Here, Dona Antónia and the Baron of Forrester, another eminent figure of the Douro Valley, fell into the river in a boating accident. Dona Antónia survived, but the Baron drowned. The locals say in jest that her voluminous skirt saved her, while the Baron sank because his pockets were filled with gold coins.

Maria Ferreira, a former teacher who oversees enotourism at Vale Meão, picked us up at the Pocinho train station in a vintage Land Rover. Though not related to Dona Antónia, Maria speaks about the estate with such passion it feels as though she is part of the family. An eagle followed the Land Rover as we drove through Cortes de Veiga, a village created to house the many laborers who worked at Vale Meão between 1885 and 1887.

The name Meão, which means “middle,” refers to the river encircling the property, making it feel like an island. The vineyards are planted on a magnificent plateau by the river.

Maria took us on an exhilarating safari through the vineyards. We then visited Barca Velha, a cellar built in 1892 named after an old rowboat used to cross the river. Here, Fernando Nicolau d’Almeida crafted the first Barca Velha in 1952, combining grapes from Vale Meão with those grown at higher altitudes in Meda to craft a table wine that became iconic.

Our tour concluded at the main house, constructed by Dona Antónia in 1894. We were warmly received by three of her descendants: Francisco Olazabal, known as Vito, his son Francisco, known as Xito, and his daughter Luísa. They welcomed us with a refreshing white Monte Meão, made from a blend of two grape varietals grown at opposite ends of the estate—Arinto in the sedimentary soils of the north and Rabigato in the schist soils of the south. This wine beautifully showcases the diversity of the terroirs at Vale Meão.

As we talked to Vito, Xito, and Luísa, it became clear that wine is a language to them. Soils and grape varietals are like words that can express human craftsmanship and the whims of the seasons to make wine as fine as poetry. Their passion for wine is only matched by the generosity with which they share the fruits of this extraordinary place with those who visit.

We tasted the Monte Meão Vinha da Cantina, a surprising wine made from baga, a red grape from Bairrada. While in Bairrada, baga produces tannic, robust reds; here, it yields a light (11.5% alcohol), vibrant wine.

Next, we enjoyed a remarkable Monte Meão Touriga Nacional from the granite soils of Vinha dos Novos. It has a crimson color, a delicate floral aroma, and a supine elegance on the palate. It was followed by a beautiful Monte Meão from Casa das Máquinas, home to the estate’s oldest vineyards that combines Touriga Francesa and Tinta Barroca.

The tasting of table wines concluded with two stunning Vale Meão vintages. The 2014 vintage is a complex, alluring wine, and the 2002 vintage is exquisite in its subtlety and refinement. 

Then, port wines entered the scene. First, a 10-year-old tawny, which is all that a great tawny can be, offering notes of nuts, coffee, chocolate, and orange rind to enchant the palate. Then, a stunning 1999 colheita, that is richly satisfying.

In 1999, Vito took a significant risk by leaving his safe position as a director at Sogrape, the large wine company that acquired most of Dona Antónia’s properties, to start a new family project under the Vale Meão name. The many accolades earned since then, including inclusion in the Wine Spectator’s list of the world’s top 5 wines, show clearly that the risk paid off. From her celestial vantage point, Dona Antónia must be beaming with pride.

To inquire about a tour hosted by Maria Ferreira, email turismo@quintadovalemeao.pt. Click here, for the estate’s website.

Elegance and passion at Foz Torto

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Because we were born 150 years apart, we did not have a chance to meet the Baron of Forrester, the British port wine trader who championed the Douro Valley. But we know Abílio Tavares da Silva, another outsider who became one of Douro’s best ambassadors. 

Originally a tech entrepreneur, Abílio sold his company in 2000 and retired at the age of 40 to pursue his passion for winemaking. He does not believe in taking shortcuts, so he built his expertise from the ground up by earning an enology degree at the University of Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro. He also began his search for the ideal vineyards.

In 2004, he acquired Foz Torto, a picturesque estate near Pinhão, close to the confluence of the river Torto with the Douro. Planted with old vines, it offers stunning views of the Douro Valley. Abílio teamed up with Sandra Tavares da Silva, a star enologist, to craft his wines. Despite having the same surnames, Abílio and Sandra are not relatives. But they share a passion for making wines that combine elegance with great aging potential. Their portfolio includes a lavish red from 80-year-old vines and a beguiling white from 40-year-old vines grown in Porrais, 600 meters above sea level.

Abílio describes his winemaking philosophy as simple, yet as he explained his process, we quickly filled a notebook with intricate details. The caliber of his wines reflects not just the superior quality of the grapes but also the meticulous attention to detail that his engineering mindset brings to every facet of production—from managing the vineyards year-round, harvesting the grapes when they reach the perfect balance of sugar and acidity, controlling fermentation temperatures, and choosing the ideal aging processes.

Every August, Abílio helps organize a competition to select the finest heirloom tomatoes in the Douro Valley. This event brings winemakers together and showcases the Douro’s uniqueness. The poor schist soil encourages plants to grow deep roots, resulting in not only extraordinary wines but also exceptional fruits, herbs, vegetables, and olive oil. A few drops of the olive oil Abílio produces at Foz Torto can turn a simple salad into a culinary offering worthy of Mount Olympus.

For us, Abílio is much more than a gifted winemaker. He is a source of inspiration and a role model. When we grow up, we want to be like him.

Hamilton Reis’ exhilarating wines

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Extreme sports, like surfing giant waves, captivate enthusiasts with their exhilarating adrenaline rush. Hamilton Reis’ family wine project, Natus, offers this kind of thrill. The production is organic; the vines are not irrigated; the fermentation relies only on wild yeast and takes place first in the large clay pots that the Romans used and then in old oak barrels. The grapes are picked by hand and trodden by foot. Most modern winemaking techniques are set aside to produce wines with minimal intervention but meticulous attention to detail. Like a master surfer, Hamilton can afford to take these risks because of his extensive experience and depth of knowledge.

Natus means born in Latin. Hamilton chose the name to indicate that he and his family started this project from the ground up. They bought four hectares of land in Vidigueira, Alentejo in 2008. For ten years, Hamilton nurtured the soil so it could recover from decades of chemical abuse with herbicides and pesticides. During that time, he learned about the climate and the varietals planted in the region and talked to the elders about the local wine-making traditions. Those traditions are, for Hamilton, as much part of the terroir as everything else. 

He built a house for his family in the middle of the field so he could take care of the vines as if they were part of his family. The cellar is invisible. It lies underground so that gravity can help unload the grapes. 

An important aspect of the location is the absence of barriers between the land and the sea. The Mendro mountain, situated east of the property, forms a shell that keeps the cool air from the sea. The resulting climate produces elegant wines that are low in alcohol and yet rich in complexity, depth, and freshness. 

These unique wines are difficult to buy because only about 6,000 bottles are produced in each year. Hamilton is determined not to increase production to a level that would compromise his ability to maintain personal control over every aspect of the process. However, to meet the demand for his wines, he has initiated a new venture named Intus, the Latin word for “inside.” This wine is crafted from grapes sourced from a select group of farmers who refrain from irrigating their vines and agree to adopt the rigorous biodynamic methods that Hamilton champions. Like Natus, Intus wines are characterized by their low extraction and alcohol content. However, they undergo fermentation in stainless steel, which preserves the pure essence of the fruit.

The Natus label has a secret. Those who discover it get a glimpse of what Hamilton sees every day: vines that produce wines made without compromises, perfectly in tune with nature.

The Natus vineyards are on Estrada da Cancelinha in Vidigueira, Alentejo. Click here for the Natus website.

Finding the secret of longevity in Colares

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The rain fell hard, trying to make up for the dry spring and summer.  But we were not deterred. We drove through the narrow road that leads to Colares to meet a legendary winemaker: the 97-year-old Paulo da Silva, affectionately known as Chitas (pronounced cheetahs), the nickname he inherited from his grandfather.

We stopped at Adega Beira Mar, which means cellar by the sea, an apt description. Paulo came out to greet us, his slender figure dressed in a dark suit. It was chilly inside the building, but he did not seem to mind. “Is it the cold or the wine that is the secret of your longevity?” we asked. Paulo replied with a smile. “My father liked to say that drinking a bottle of our wine with lunch and another with dinner would extend your life. But I prefer a small glass of wine with my meals.”

Paulo has an amazing memory for dates, facts, and figures. He tells us the building was erected in 1898 by his grandfather. “This place has seen it all: the two world wars, the Great Depression.” 

In Colares, the vine planting process is unique. Farmers dig holes in the sand until they find a clay bed where they can plant the vine roots. The sandy soil served as a natural barrier against phylloxera, an insect that devastated many European vineyards in the latter half of the 19th century. 

With wine production declining in other regions, Colares thrived. Many producers prospered by exporting their wine to Brazil. Paulo’s grandfather, António, was a foreman for one of these exporters, Manuel José Colares. António’s work ethic and dedication were so great that Manuel bequeathed him part of his business. But when the Great Depression came, Brazil did not pay for the wine, and most companies went bankrupt. The few that survived have since been sold or closed. Only Paulo’s Adega Beira Mar remains in the same family. “The wines have earned 71 prizes since 1889, two just last year,” he tells us. 

Over the past few decades, the construction of summer residences in Colares has gradually encroached upon the land occupied by vineyards, reducing it to 30 hectares. Paulo da Silva owns some vines, but for most of his life, he was what the French call a “negociant,” a savvy wine merchant. His expertise lies in identifying superior wines, aging them to perfection, and then selling them.  “Time is the secret of Colares wine,” he explained. The region’s two signature varietals, the white Malvasia and the red Ramisco, need time to develop complexity and finesse.

On one occasion, the former President of Portugal, Jorge Sampaio came to visit Paulo. The president asked, “What is the oldest wine in the cellar?” “It is from 1955,” responded Paulo. “You kept that wine for too long,” said the president. “It has surely gone bad.” Paulo fetched a bottle from 1955 and offered it to the president. A few weeks later, the president called in the evening to say, “We tried that wine at dinner tonight, and it was exceptional. I learned something new— Colares wines have a remarkable longevity.”

We sampled a Malvasia from 1996 that was lively and crisp, with aromas of citrus and green olives and a hint of saltiness on the palate. A marvel!

Paulo led us to see some Ramisco vines he had planted in the sandy soil near the cellar just two years ago. “Look how well they’re doing,” he said with pride. He then gestured towards an unoccupied section of the yard. “Over there, I’m planning to build a new cellar to boost our production,” he explained.

Perhaps Colares wines are the secret to eternal youth and vigor. We purchased a few bottles to test this theory. It promises to be an enjoyable experiment.

M.O.B., stellar wines from the Dão region

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In 2010, a leisurely lunch in the picturesque Dão region brought together four wine producers. Three came from the Douro Valley: Jorge Serôdio Borges, Jorge Moreira, and Francisco Olazabal. Their host was Álvaro de Castro, a renowned winemaker from the Dão region, known for the finesse of his wines.

Jorge Serôdio Borges and his wife lead Wine & Soul, a cornerstone of excellence in the Douro Valley. Jorge Moreira has achieved great recognition for his project, Poeira, and for the wines he has made at Quinta de La Rosa. Francisco Olazabal heads the iconic Quinta do Vale Meão. This estate was planted in the late 19thcentury by his great-grandmother, Dona Antónia Ferreira, the person who sowed the seeds of the success that the Douro Valley enjoys today.

The three friends are passionate about the freshness and refinement that can be found in old Dão wines. During lunch, they mused about one day making wine together in the Dão region.

A year later, Álvaro de Castro reached out, encouraging them to make this dream come true: “I need your help to promote the Dão region. There’s an aging producer looking to lease his estate, Quinta do Corujão, in Seia. If you’re serious about launching a project in the Dão region, this is a good opportunity.”

The Douro winemakers visited the 10 hectares of vineyards cultivated on granite terroir at 550 meters of elevation at the base of the Estrela Mountain. They decided to lease the property to make wine together. They called their brand M.O.B., a memorable name composed from the initials of their surnames.

By going to a different region, the three masters of the Douro Valley became students once again. The same varietals behave very differently in Dão and in the Douro Valley. In the Dão region, the climate is cooler, and the soils are granitic. In the Douro region, the summers are hot, and schist is prevalent in the soils.

Douro wines are famous for their intensity. In the Dão, the trio embraced a low extraction approach, aging the wine in old oak barrels that round the tannins without imparting new flavors to the wine. The result is lighter wines that are delicate and transparent, preserving the fruit’s freshness and showing an almost floral character. 

M.O.B. was a success because wine enthusiasts quickly recognized the exceptional quality-to-price ratios of the wines. Five years after their first harvest, the trio purchased Quinta do Corujão and leased five hectares of old vineyards in Gouveia, where white and red grapes are planted together. 

Their outstanding introductory wine is called “Lote 3” because it is a harmonious blend of the three emblematic grape varietals from the Dão region: Touriga Nacional, Afrocheiro, and Jaen. Their stellar premium wines bear the names of Seia and Gouveia before the Roman occupation (“Senna” and “Gauvé”).

A crucial element in the M.O.B. project is the strong camaraderie and mutual respect the winemakers have for each other. Like in Alexandre Dumas’s famous novel, their motto is: “All for one, and one for all.” 

Throughout the harvest season, they take turns visiting the vineyards daily, each making decisions informed by the insights of the vintner who visited the day before and leaving information for the one who follows the next day. This relay race produces wines that win our palate with their charm and elegance.

M.O.B. is a story of three musketeers who journeyed from the Douro Valley to the Dão region, where, thanks to a close-knit friendship, they conquered a new terroir and crafted exceptional wines.

Mouchão’s timeless wines

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Turning from the asphalt road onto the rustic path that leads to Mouchão is like entering another century. The route is lined with secular eucalyptuses that perfume the air with their fragrance.  On the left, there are picturesque vineyards. At the road’s end, the winery comes into view. It is where, for more than 140 years, some of the most renowned wines in Alentejo have been produced. 

“The winemaking style remains faithful to tradition,” explains Hamilton Reis, Mouchão’s enologist. “We embrace a philosophy of minimal intervention and meticulous attention to every detail. However, we also harness modern viticultural and oenological knowledge to anticipate and solve problems.” 

What sets Mouchão apart is its unique location. The vineyards are planted on an old riverbed that creates a microclimate, lending freshness to the wines. The underground water sustains the vines during the scorching summers, so they don’t need to be irrigated. To access this subterranean water, the vines develop deep roots that absorb the polyphenols that contribute to the wines’ remarkable richness.

The grapes undergo gentle foot-treading to ensure a delicate extraction and avoid herbaceous notes. The wine ages in large barrels crafted from Brazilian macacaúba, mahogany, Portuguese oak, and chestnut. These old barrels no longer influence the wine’s taste but provide the right amount of micro-oxygenation.

Mouchão is famous as the birthplace of Alicante Bouschet in Portugal. This grape variety, created by French viticulturist Henri Bouschet, failed to thrive in France. At the end of the 19th century, two professors from Montpelier planted some Alicante Bouschet cuttings in Mouchão. Here, basking in the sunny Alentejo climate, the vines flourished, producing wines of intense color and flavor. Alicante Bouschet spread throughout the region and eventually found its way to the Douro Valley.

For six generations, Mouchão has belonged to the Reynolds, a Scottish family. Iain Reynolds Richardson, Mouchão’s current general manager, descends from Thomas Reynolds, who arrived in Portugal in 1824 to trade cork, wool, and other agricultural products. Thomas moved to Alentejo in 1932 and started producing cork in Mouchão. Making wine was a natural extension of his business. In 1890, John Reynolds his grandson, built a family home and some agricultural buildings on the estate. The iconic wine cellar was inaugurated in 1901.

For generations, the Alabaças, a traditional Alentejo family, worked on the estate tending to the vines and making the wines. It was hard manual labor–electricity only arrived in 1991.

In the aftermath of Portugal’s 1974 revolution, the estate was nationalized. The vineyards were abandoned, and the buildings and equipment fell into disrepair. João Alabaça worked tirelessly to minimize the destruction. But, despite his best efforts, by the time the estate was returned to the Reynolds family in 1986, the precious barrels had suffered serious damage. It took a dedicated team of coopers two years to painstakingly restore them. In the meantime, the best grapes were aged in the two barrels that had survived unscathed, labeled 3 and 4. The wine from these barrels, known simply as “Tonel No. 3-4,” achieved mythical status. However, as Hamilton explains, “The real magic lies not in the barrels, but in the quality of the grapes.”

The estates’ flagship wine, simply called Mouchão, was first bottled in 1949. It marries the robust Alicante Bouschet with various varietals, most notably Trincadeira. This wine is a true marvel, with a freshness and elegance unusual in Alentejo. It is a fitting homage to the unwavering dedication of generations of Reynolds and Alabaças.

Filipa Pato’s joyous wines

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We met Filipa Pato and her husband, William Wouters, at Costa Nova, the beach where Filipa used to vacation as a child. Our dinner at Clube da Vela, a restaurant resembling a ship adrift on the waters of Aveiro’s Ria, was unforgettable.

Even though her family has produced wine for five generations, it was not easy for Filipa to start making wine. She didn’t own land, and she is the daughter of a legend. Her father, Luís Pato, is the visionary who placed wines made from baga, the red varietal from Bairrada, on the pantheon of the world’s finest wines. But, over time, Filipa painstakingly crafted splendid wines and forged her own legendary status. “In New York, they know me as Filipa’s father,” says Luís with pride.

After studying chemical engineering in Coimbra, Filipa interned at vineyards in France, Australia, and Argentina. She returned to Bairrada in 2001 for her inaugural harvest and bottled the wine in 2003. A Belgian distributor acquired half of the production. He sold some bottles to William Wouters, a genial chef and sommelier who owned Pazzo, an acclaimed brasserie and wine bar in Antwerp. William became a fan of Filipa’s wines. “At the time, no one knew the white grapes that Filipa uses–bical, arinto, cercial—so I called the wine a Portuguese Chablis,” says William. 

William and Filipa frequently crossed paths at wine events. Like in a fairy tale, their connection blossomed into love, culminating in their marriage in 2008. Filipa, who is intense, inquisitive, and creative, found a perfect partner in William, who is funny, focused, and organized. There is a great rapport between the two. Both are artists at heart, driven by a passion for crafting exceptional wines. 

Their wines have achieved tremendous success, earning a place in the lists of many renowned restaurants. The demand is so high that they sell through allocations—restaurants and distributors receive only a fraction of what they order. Each January, the couple runs out of wine to sell.

Enthusiasts from all corners of the globe make pilgrimages to meet these trailblazing winemakers. Just last autumn, Jonny Buckland, Coldplay’s guitarist and wine enthusiast, paid them a visit. 

The couple lives in Óis do Bairro, a picturesque village of 200 people that dates back to the Middle Ages. They employ ten people who do everything by hand. “We prioritize investing in people over machines,” says William. 

Their terroir is exceptional, with soil composed of clay and limestone from the Jurassic era. The proximity to the sea infuses the wines with a delightful salinity. The vineyards have low yields, but the quality of the grapes is superb. 

They own 32 parcels of land spanning 20 hectares. “Visiting our properties is like going on a safari,” says William. The portfolio includes centenary vines as well as vineyards that predate the phylloxera outbreak in the second half of the 19th century. One of their jewels is Missão, a vineyard planted with baga in 1864. 

A significant turning point in Filipa and William’s journey was their adoption of biodynamic farming practices. After enduring three years of reduced yields, their efforts began to bear fruit. Yields rebounded, and the grapes acquired a new vibrancy.

Eliminating chemicals attracted snails to the vineyards. To divert these mollusks from the grapevines, the couple planted foods that the snails find irresistible like fennel and fava beans. The biodynamic practices turned the fields into hubs of life, teeming with blooming flowers, wildlife, ladybugs, and other beneficial insects.

Because the space between vines is narrow, they employ sheep, pigs, and chickens instead of horse-drawn plowing. The pigs eat lots of grapes but, instead of lamenting the production losses, the couple takes pleasure in the pigs’ satisfaction.

Our tasting began with the festive 3B rosé sparkling wine, a perfect summer wine. The three Bs stand for Bairrada, the wine region, baga and bical, the two grape varietals. The color of the wine changes from year to year. “My wines wear no makeup; I work with what Mother Nature gives me,” says Filipa. 

Next, we savored a beguiling Blanc de Blancs sparkling made from a trio of white grapes: bical, cercial, and Maria Gomes. Its creamy and refreshing character delighted our senses.

Our glasses were then filled with a 2020 Nossa Calcário white made from bical, ranked high on the Wine Spectator list of the world’s finest wines. You do not need wine critics to appreciate the excellence of this wine, with its exquisite minerality and saline notes. It is made in their village, which in the 19th century was considered the best terroir for white wines in Bairrada. 

We embarked on a journey back in time with Post Quer..s Baga, a red wine produced in amphoras. This delicate wine has a transparency and purity that is rare in modern wines. Filipa does not coat the amphoras, so the porous clay naturally softens the tannins of the baga.

Next came their flagship Nossa Calcário Red. It is made from baga grapes grown on small centenary vines. The result is an opulent wine with fine tannins that is wonderful to drink now but promises even greater rewards with age.

“In Bairrada, it is a tradition to start the meal with sparkling wine and end with sparkling wine,” says Filipa. The grand finale was a stunning sparkling made with a solera process initiated in 2001. 

The solera system uses a sequence of barrels. Every year, Filipa removes wine from the top barrel to use as the base for sparkling wine. This barrel is filled with wine from the barrel just below, which in turn gets filled by the barrel just below, etc. Finally, the bottom barrel is filled with new wine. The result is a moving average of all the harvests going back to 2001.

The wine was poured into a decanter designed by William and then served in white wine glasses. Just one sip of this nectar revealed why it was elected Wine of the Year by Portugal’s leading wine magazine—an exceptional honor in a country with so many distinguished winemakers. 

Filipa and Williams love traveling and meeting other winemakers. They return from these trips to Óis de Bairro inspired and energized, ready to craft wines like these that bring joy to the world. 

Clike here for Filipa Pato and William Wouters’ website.

How to open a bottle of champagne

~ saltofportugal ~ Leave a comment

France is famous for the sparkling wine produced in the Champagne region. But there are exceptional sparkling wines in other parts of the world. We’re particularly fond of the sparklings from Bairrada, which have a unique vibrancy and remarkable aging ability. 

During a recent visit to Bairrada, renowned winemaker Mário Sérgio from Quinta das Bageiras asked his son Frederico Nuno to teach us the art of uncorking a bottle of sparkling wine. 

Everybody knows the wine should be properly chilled and that, unless you won the grand prix, you should not shake the bottle. Start by carefully cutting away the foil covering the cork. Here’s the key tip: leave the wire cage encasing the cork intact. Removing it causes the cork to expand, making it challenging to extract. Instead, gently twist the cork with the wire cage in place. The cork should effortlessly leave the bottle with no wine spillage, letting only the delightful fragrances waft into the air.

“If the boss is in the house,” Frederico says, referring to his father, “we twist the cork slowly to ensure it comes out silently. If the boss is away, we remove the cork more briskly to hear the celebratory pop we associate with sparkling wine.”

To demonstrate the technique, Frederico opened a bottle of the splendid 2018 Quinta das Bageiras Grande Reserva, rosé sparkling wine. Once the bottle was open, there was no going back. Frederico poured the exquisite sparkling into elegant white wine glasses, allowing the wine to breathe and revealing its intricate aromas. We raised our glasses and toasted to Bairrada, a region that produces sparkling wines that rival the finest champagnes.