As John Coltrane’s career evolved, his music underwent a profound transformation. He began as a virtuoso, dazzling audiences with his fluency and flair. But then, he transcended virtuosity, creating music that other players could not imagine because it came from a deeper source of inspiration.
The evolution of Ceia parallels this creative arch. From its inception, this restaurant, nestled within Lisbon’s most elegant hotel, offered unforgettable culinary experiences. But its current menu, orchestrated by a team led by chef Renato Bonfim, transcends technical skill to offer food that is new and exciting.
Titled Change, the menu is a series of culinary moments inspired by our planet and the way we interact with it. Most produce comes from Herdade no Tempo an estate in Alentejo that follows regenerative agriculture practices. Ceia transforms these products into elegies of cooking and celebrations of flavor.
We generally like to describe the tastes, aromas, and sensations that the food evokes, but Ceia’s menu is so unique that revealing too much would detract from its magic. What we can tell you is that the names of the menu entries could be titles of Coltrane tunes: Ocean, Carbon, Air, You Look but Don’t Sea, Solo.
The service at Ceia, as seamless as always, keeps the guests in a state of enchantment. Francisco Guilerme curates a pairing of rare wines that elevate every dish and Kristin Liebold offers an exquisite selection of non-alcoholic drinks.
Ceia is creating new culinary melodies from a deeper source of inspiration to feed our hunger and nourish our souls.
Ceia is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128. Lisbon. Click here for the restaurant’s website.
Standing in the shadow of Lisbon’s old pantheon, we knock on an inconspicuous door that opens into a courtyard erected in 1728. On our right is the entrance to one of Lisbon’s most hallowed dining rooms: a restaurant called Ceia. Those who’ve been here before experienced much more than superb food, exquisite wines, and courteous service. We had an enchanted evening.
João Rodrigues, Ceia’s owner, is an alchemist who knows how to transform a meal that nourishes the body into a celebration that nurtures the soul. He gathered a star team, headed by chef Diogo Caetano and sous-chef Tiago Silva, and trusted them with precious ingredients: pristine organic produce freshly picked at Herdade do Tempo in Alentejo.
Ivo Custódio, the sommelier, greets us with an old acquaintance: a white wine made by Luís Mota Capitão, the iconoclast winemaker of Herdade do Cebolal. We enjoy the wine and the conversation with the other guests. Then, Ivo invites us into the dining room. We gather around a long wooden table to hear him explain that the meal is a journey through Portugal’s culinary and enological landscapes.
The voyage starts at the bottom of the ocean with tuna tartare on crunchy seaweed crackers, seaweed sponge cake, and gooseneck barnacles. An Atlantis rosé made with Negra Mole on the Madeira Island enhances the sea flavors.
We rise to the ocean’s surface with the taste of briny oysters paired with tart apples from Alcobaça and seaweed ice cream. The oysters come with a magnificent 2014 white wine from Colares, a small region near the sea where the vines, planted in the sand, survived the phylloxera scourge that decimated Europe in the 19th century. Made by Chitas (the nickname of an old producer called Paulo da Silva) it is a complex wine that fascinates and delights.
We arrive at the beach with a delicately cooked turbot seasoned with smoky olive oil powder and served in a Bulhão Pato sauce. It is so delicious we barely resist the urge to ask for seconds.
But we find new joys in the lowlands where a sourdough bread fermented for three days and a cornbread baked with dried fruits await us. They come with Amor é Cego, a piquant oil made from Galega olives. There are also plates of luscious butter from Pico, an island in the Azores archipelago.
Ivo serves an elegant 2012 red from Quinta de Lemos in the Dão region. It is made with Jaen–a grape varietal brought to Portugal by pilgrims who traveled to Santiago de Compostela. Like the wine, the conversation flows freely around the table.
In the plains, there is rabbit served with an ice cream made from escabeche, a traditional sauce prepared with vinegar and olive oil. Kompassus, a sparkling wine made from Baga, a red grape from Bairrada, refreshes our palate.
We climb up the mountain with a roasted purple cabbage dressed with a pennyroyal and champagne sauce. It comes with Sousão, a vibrant red wine from Vale da Raposa in the Douro valley.
At the top of the mountain, we taste pigeon and potatoes from Trás-os-Montes served with a fermented garlic sauce. There’s also a mystery box with a delightful croquette and a scrumptious Philo-dough cup filled with sorrel leaves.
Ivo serves a celebratory Breijinho da Costa, a fortified wine made in Setúbal with purple muscatel grapes. The meal ends with sweet fireworks: a noisette pave, petals of roasted peach, thyme ice cream, and lemon curd. And there are mignardises: a traditional Abade de Prisco pudding, coconut biscuits, cinnamon and strawberry truffles.
Everybody lingers around the table feeling a sense of camaraderie. Then, we say our thanks and goodbyes and walk into the warm night in a state of enchantment.
Ceia is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128. Lisbon. Click here for the restaurant’s website.
Salt of Portugal 