The wondrous old brandies of Quinta do Rol

Lourinhã is one of the few regions demarcated to produce high-quality brandy, known in Portugal as “aguardente vínica.” Like Cognac and Armagnac, Lourinhã imposes strict rules on brandy production to guarantee quality and authenticity. This dedication to excellence has led locals to affectionately nickname the region Lourinhac.

While many local grapes are not ideal for table wine, they are perfect for brandy. The fertile soils yield grapes with higher water content. The proximity to the ocean moderates the temperature, resulting in less maturation and lower alcohol concentration. The cool nights enhance the grapes’ acidity. This acidity helps the delicate fruit and floral notes of the wine carry over into the brandy and provides a stable foundation for the aging process.

Quinta do Rol is the main distillery in Lourinhã. In 1995, Carlos de Mello Ribeiro, an accomplished manager, acquired the estate from his family and invested in producing premium brandy. He had the attributes essential for success: capital, managerial skill, and patience—high-quality brandy requires 12 years of aging to develop its depth of flavor, delicate vanilla aroma, and seductive amber color. What he lacked was a detailed knowledge of the production process. To fill this gap, Carlos and his enologist, Pedro Correia, traveled to Armagnac and Cognac to learn from French producers, who generously shared their secrets.

Upon returning to Portugal, Carlos committed to using traditional methods without shortcuts. He installed a copper distillation engine like those used in Armagnac and planted Tália grapes, the varietal favored in France for brandy production under the name Ugni Blanc. Since then, he has accumulated 30 years’ worth of precious brandies, aged first in new oak and then in used oak barrels. 

The region’s freshness also lends itself to producing interesting white wines. Carlos crafts a wonderful sparkling wine with Arinto and Pinot Noir and a great white wine with Arinto and Chardonnay. He also makes a delicious Moscatel.

The first king of Portugal, Dom Afonso Henriques, granted the Lourinhã region to a French knight called Jourdain, who fought valiantly in the conquest of Lisbon. The knight would likely be proud of Lourinhac’s success in the world of brandy.

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