
Since the dawn of civilization, Babylonians, Egyptians, and Greeks have studied the skies to chart the stars. But these luminous bodies shined whether or not they were included in celestial atlases.
Last Tuesday, Marlene received a Michelin star—a richly deserved honor that celebrates her extraordinary talent and dedication. But long before this important accolade, her light had already illuminated the world of gastronomy. What fuels her radiance is the belief that cooking is an act of love. Each time we dine at her Zun Zum restaurant, we feel not just deeply satisfied but cared for.
Now, at the restaurant that bears her name, Marlene is elevating Portuguese cuisine to new heights. The space exudes serenity, with the kitchen at its heart—an altar where ingredients are transformed into a transcendent gastronomical experience. The menu evolves constantly, and once a recipe leaves, it does not return, making each meal a singular experience.
Guiding this culinary journey alongside Marlene is Chef Mário Cruz. He searches land and sea for exquisite treasures—sea urchins, Algarve red shrimp, wild mushrooms, cuttlefish, mullet, octopus, and partridge.
The food is visually stunning, but, more importantly, it is delicious and it has soul. The irresistible cornbread, kneaded from white corn, wheat, and rye, follows Marlene’s grandmother’s recipe. The Azorean bluefin tuna, cured as if it were prosciutto, accompanied by gazpacho served in a bowl lined with sumac, transported us to the Algarve, to a sunlit table by the sea.
The partridge is cooked according to a famous recipe. During the Napoleonic invasions, General Junot’s troops looted the library of the Alcântara Monastery. Among the stolen manuscripts was a recipe for partridge stuffed with foie gras and truffles. Junot sent it to his wife, who introduced it to France as “Partridge, Alcântara style.” The renowned chef Auguste Escoffier declared it one of the finest spoils of the Napoleonic wars. Marlene’s reimagined version of this historic dish is so extraordinary that it might provoke another French invasion.
Marlene Vieira is a star–not because she has been recognized among the constellations of fine dining, but because she has always shined. If you find yourself in Lisbon, take the time to sit at her table to savor the brilliance of her cuisine.
Marlene is located at Av. Infante D. Henrique, Doca do Jardim do Tabaco, Lisboa, tel. 351 912 626 761, email marlene@marlene.pt.