Porto’s Ribeira district is always bustling with tourists snapping selfies and street performers vying for attention. Yet amid this lively chaos, there is a haven: a restaurant called Casario. This cozy space, with its terrace overlooking the river, is a collaboration between Granvinhos, the port wine company behind Quinta de Ventozelo, and two virtuoso chefs: Miguel Castro e Silva and José Guedes.
We strolled to Casario under ultramarine blue skies. The dining room, bathed in a warm glow, offered a welcoming ambiance. As soon as we settled at our table, the waiter presented a basket of enticing dark wheat bread. It was accompanied by velvety butter from the Azores and Ventozelo’s piquant olive oil. A refreshing rosé from Ventozelo filled our glasses, setting a playful mood for the meal.
Like Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony, dinner began with unforgettable notes: smoked eel seasoned with mustard and honey, served atop flatbread with a vinaigrette-dressed lettuce, and fried salted skate paired with pickled fennel and a celery and hazelnut purée.
This impressive start was followed by a harmonious sequence of courses. First came a moist and flavorful robalo, cooked at low temperature and served with a surprising yet felicitous combination of yellow peppers, turnip, and bok choy. Next was a whimsical shrimp and squid lollipop and chickpeas with two mushroom varieties: nutty boletos and earthy trompetas. The meal continued with a squid stuffed with spinach and sausage, bursting with flavor. Then came a briny turbot, paired beautifully with asparagus and a cockle called berbigão.
Dinner concluded on a sweet note with cinnamon ice cream, crème brûlée, and toasted pine nuts. A glass of 1994 Dalva port served as the perfect coda to this delicious meal.
It takes a lifetime to master the art of preparing a symphonic culinary experience like this one. Bravo, Miguel and José!
Casario is located at Praça da Ribeira, Viela do Buraco, 19, Porto, tel. 227-662-270. Click here for their website.
You might not be familiar with António Magalhães, the chief viticulturist of the famed Taylor-Fladgate port house, but if you enjoy exceptional port wines, you’ve likely experienced the fruits of his labor. António has worked for more than three decades in the rolling terraces of the Douro Valley. Throughout this time, nature has gradually revealed to him some of its winemaking secrets. Patience has been essential in this apprenticeship. It can take many years to grasp the impact of viticulture choices on wine production.
António is known for his thoughtful character and gentle disposition. But beneath this demeanor lies a powerful intellect–he has the rigor of a scientist, the curiosity of a historian, and the eloquence of a poet. He believes in combining scientific methods with traditional wisdom and has a deep reverence for the mysteries of winemaking.
In collaboration with a statistician, António sought to unravel some of these mysteries, analyzing climate data since 1941 to identify weather patterns associated with vintage years, the finest for port wine production. They discovered that these years share three characteristics. First, the average temperature in July is less than 24.5 degrees Celsius. Second, two-thirds of the rain falls during the dormancy period (from November to February) and one-third during the growth period (from March to June). Third, there is less than 20 millimeters of rain in September. A small amount of rain at harvest time helps refine the grapes, says António, but too much rain in September fills the grapes with water and promotes fungal diseases. To António’s delight, they found that exceptional vintage years often deviate from the norm in unique ways, a testament to the magic of port wine.
Another facet of this magic is the art of blending. The Douro’s diverse microclimates provide winemakers with a rich palette to adapt to the annual variations in weather. They skillfully blend diverse varietals from vineyards with different locations, altitudes, and sun exposure. António has a profound understanding of the art of blending grounded on his comprehensive knowledge of the Douro subregions—the rain-soaked Baixo Corgo, the moderately wet Cima Corgo, and the arid Douro Superior.
He has studied how grape varietals were adapted to counter the crisis created by phylloxera, an American insect that decimated European vines in the second half of the 19th century. The blight reached the Douro region in 1862-63 and became a severe problem in 1872. Farmers noticed that Mourisco, a varietal with lackluster enological properties, was the most resistant to phylloxera. For this reason, Mourisco was crossed with Touriga Nacional, considered the finest pre-phylloxera varietal, to create Touriga Francesa. The name, which means French Touriga, was likely chosen to honor the French school of viticulture and its contribution to creating phylloxera-resistant varietals.
António also analyzed the various types of American vine roots brought from places like Texas to the Douro Valley to graft European vines and increase their resilience to phylloxera.
Since 1992, António has worked closely with David Guimaraens, the chief enologist at Taylor-Fladgate. Every year, António and David write several letters to the farmers who produce grapes for Taylor-Fladgate, offering insights into the vines’ current conditions and the most effective viticulture practices to respond to them. This educational effort is vital to the quality of the Taylor-Fladgate ports.
Concerned with the impact of heavy rainfall on soil erosion, António and David developed a new model for the terraces where the vines are planted. They had an epiphany while visiting the Benziger family, a biodynamic wine producer in California. It started to rain torrentially, and as they ran for shelter, they noticed that the rain was running with them. They realized that this kind of drainage, created by a three percent gradient, is what the Douro Valley needs.
António and David asked earthmoving companies to find a bulldozer narrow enough to fit in the terraces and capable of creating a three percent inclination. One of the companies found a second-hand machine used in rice plantations in the south of Portugal. The company’s manager called to say that the machine had an unusual device. “Bring it along,” said António. It turned out that the device was a laser that greatly simplified the task of creating a three percent slope. They later learned that the Benziger farmland had been graded by Chinese workers, who were likely to be familiar with the three percent inclination used in rice cultivation.
The Taylor-Fladgate farms stand out for their beauty because António is a sculptor of landscapes. He knows that cultivating a vineyard, planting a tree, or building a stone wall alters the scenery, and like an artist, he selects colors that harmonize, proportions that feel human, rhythms that please the eye.
António is passionate about researching the history of the Douro region. He often visits Torre do Tombo, a vast national archive with documents spanning nine centuries of Portuguese history. The writings of Álvaro Moreira da Fonseca (the creator of the vine quality scoring system still in use), the Baron of Fladgate, John Croft, José Costa Lima, A. Guerra Tenreiro, and many other Douro luminaries are his constant companions.
His extensive knowledge of history gives him a unique appreciation for the sacrifices made by generations of workers who have toiled in the Douro region. This understanding is evident in how António interacts with the people he manages. His sincere appreciation for their efforts earns him the loyalty and trust of his collaborators.
Today, António Magalhães retires as Taylor-Fladgate’s chief viticulturist. This milestone marks the beginning of a new chapter. We hope that António can now find the time to write a treatise on viticulture so that, as the climate continues to change, his erudition can illuminate the future of the Douro Valley.
João Branco owns a fish stall in the Lourinhã market where he sells the freshest fish and finest seafood. He knows a lot about the fruits of the sea because his family has been in the fish business for nearly a century–both his mother and grandmother were fishmongers.
João shared a story about a couple who had friends coming over for a “caldeirada,” a traditional fish stew, but had never prepared it before and found the task daunting. João reassured them, saying, “No worries. Bring me a large pot, and I’ll prepare everything. All you need to do is put it on the stove until it’s cooked.” The next day, the customers called to tell João that their guests thought it was the best caldeirada they’d ever had. Whenever their friends return for the famous caldeirada, João prepares the pot, ensuring success every time. João generously shared his recipe with us so you, too, can impress your friends.
João Branco’s Fisherman Stew
João only uses fish without scales because finding scales in the stew can detract from the culinary experience. He also advises against using sardines because their strong taste can overpower the other fish. João does not use laurel because it can also overshadow the delicate flavors of the fish.
He arranges the vegetable layers at the bottom of the pot and places the fish on top. This technique allows the fish to cook in steam, ensuring it is ready at the same time.
Ingredients:
Olive oil (100 ml)
2 sliced onions
4 minced garlic cloves
One sliced red pepper
One sliced green pepper
2 ripe sliced tomatoes
500 grams of sliced potatoes
A teaspoon of smoked paprika
Cayenne pepper
White wine (100 ml)
Beer (100 ml)
Parsley
Coriander
Salt
Navalheiras (small crabs, cut in half, optional)
Shrimp (optional)
Squid or cuttlefish (optional)
One kilogram of assorted fish including tamboril (monkfish), safio (conger eel), raia (skate), and cação (dogfish).
Instructions:
Choose a pot large enough to accommodate two or three layers of potatoes and the fish.
Wash all the ingredients.
Cover the bottom of the pot with olive oil.
Add a layer of sliced onions, garlic, tomatoes, and red and green peppers.
Add a layer of sliced potatoes.
Repeat the layers of onions, garlic, peppers, tomatoes, and potatoes.
Place the fish on top of these layers, ensuring it cooks in the steam from the layers below.
Drizzle the white wine and beer on top of everything.
Season with salt, smoked paprika, and cayenne pepper.
Optionally, you can add navalheiras (small crabs) cut in half for extra flavor. You can also add some sliced cuttlefish or squid and top the fish with shrimp. The shrimp cooks faster than the fish. Once it is cooked, remove the shrimp, peel it, and serve it with the stew.
Cover the pot and cook over medium heat. You don’t need to add any water because the vegetables naturally release plenty of it.
Season with parsley and coriander before serving.
If preparing this delicious stew feels like too much work, bring a large pot to the Lourinhã market and ask João if he’ll prepare it for you.
Lourinhã is one of the few regions demarcated to produce high-quality brandy, known in Portugal as “aguardente vínica.” Like Cognac and Armagnac, Lourinhã imposes strict rules on brandy production to guarantee quality and authenticity. This dedication to excellence has led locals to affectionately nickname the region Lourinhac.
While many local grapes are not ideal for table wine, they are perfect for brandy. The fertile soils yield grapes with higher water content. The proximity to the ocean moderates the temperature, resulting in less maturation and lower alcohol concentration. The cool nights enhance the grapes’ acidity. This acidity helps the delicate fruit and floral notes of the wine carry over into the brandy and provides a stable foundation for the aging process.
Quinta do Rol is the main distillery in Lourinhã. In 1995, Carlos de Mello Ribeiro, an accomplished manager, acquired the estate from his family and invested in producing premium brandy. He had the attributes essential for success: capital, managerial skill, and patience—high-quality brandy requires 12 years of aging to develop its depth of flavor, delicate vanilla aroma, and seductive amber color. What he lacked was a detailed knowledge of the production process. To fill this gap, Carlos and his enologist, Pedro Correia, traveled to Armagnac and Cognac to learn from French producers, who generously shared their secrets.
Upon returning to Portugal, Carlos committed to using traditional methods without shortcuts. He installed a copper distillation engine like those used in Armagnac and planted Tália grapes, the varietal favored in France for brandy production under the name Ugni Blanc. Since then, he has accumulated 30 years’ worth of precious brandies, aged first in new oak and then in used oak barrels.
The region’s freshness also lends itself to producing interesting white wines. Carlos crafts a wonderful sparkling wine with Arinto and Pinot Noir and a great white wine with Arinto and Chardonnay. He also makes a delicious Moscatel.
The first king of Portugal, Dom Afonso Henriques, granted the Lourinhã region to a French knight called Jourdain, who fought valiantly in the conquest of Lisbon. The knight would likely be proud of Lourinhac’s success in the world of brandy.
Victorian novels describe picnics where friends have a grand time, enjoying delicious food in idyllic settings. But real-life picnics seldom measure up to these literary accounts. Sometimes, the sun is too harsh, and the shade is scarce. Other times, it is cold, the wind blows disagreeably, or the rain intrudes. Wine and beer are lukewarm by the time they are served. Sitting is uncomfortable, and troupes of insects join the party.
When our friend Abílio Tavares da Silva invited us for a picnic, we braced ourselves for the usual woes. But, as soon as we arrived at his Douro Valley estate, it was clear that this would be no ordinary affair.
It was a midsummer day with clear skies and a gentle breeze. Spacious wooden tables with comfortable benches awaited the lucky guests under the shade of two majestic linden trees. The view, with the Douro River stretching out in all its splendor, was worthy of being painted by Turner.
The picnic basket, prepared by the talented Rosário Buia at Toca da Raposa, was brimming with delicacies. There were farinheira tarts, shrimp rissoles, oranges seasoned with olive oil and minced garlic, chickpea salad, carrot and zucchini rice, olives, freshly baked bread, and a tortilla prepared with eggs so delicious that they were surely laid by the happiest of chicken.
The food was served in colorful pottery designed by the 19th-century master ceramist Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro. Abílio’s alluring Foz Torto white wine, made from precious old vines in Porrais, was poured into crystal glasses at the ideal temperature.
The conversation flowed as freely as the food and the wine. The meal ended late in the afternoon with slices of Toca da Raposa’s famous drunken cake (bolo borrachão) accompanied by glasses of chilled 20-year-old Fonseca tawny port. Not even Jane Austen could imagine such a perfect picnic.
Torres Vedras, a charming town near Lisbon nestled among hills planted with vineyards, is steeped in Portuguese history. Its castle helped defend the kingdom during medieval times, and the town served as the headquarters for the troops that fought against the Napoleonic invasions.
However, for us, Torres Vedras is synonymous with a Portuguese cornbread called broa. Some years ago, a friend brought us bread made with corn and rye flour from a pastry shop called São Pedro. Since then, we have made regular pilgrimages to satisfy our devotion to this delicious treat.
Despite our persistent attempts, the secrets behind São Pedro’s cornbread remain elusive. Over the years, our inquiries have been met with vague responses such as “It’s a traditional recipe from the north of Portugal.” The resulting mystery only adds to the cornbread’s allure, compelling us to keep returning to Torres Vedras.
Pastelaria São Pedro is located at Rua Dona Teresa Jesus Pereira 34-A, Torres Vedras, tel. 261 321 133.
One of the Douro Valley’s ultimate experiences is visiting Quinta do Vale Meão. While the estate is not generally open to the public, it does receive a few small groups each year. You can email in advance to inquire whether they can host you.
Vale Meão was the last estate planted by the legendary Dona Antónia Ferreira. It was a colossal endeavor: 300 hectares of wild bush were converted into vineyards and olive groves. Dona Antónia invested in the remote Vale Meão against the advice of her general manager because of its unique characteristics. It is located on a geological fault with three different types of soil: schist, granite, and sedimentary clay deposited by the river. The weather is dry, as clouds rarely cross the Marvão mountain, reducing the prevalence of vine diseases like oidium.
The best way to reach Vale Meão is by taking the train from Pinhão to Pocinho. There are usually few passengers, so you can choose a seat by the riverside and enjoy a glorious hour beholding the Douro river in all its splendor. The train rushes through bridges and tunnels carved into granite hills, but the river is seldom out of sight.
You go by Cachão da Valeira, a treacherous spot before dams regulated the water flow. Here, Dona Antónia and the Baron of Forrester, another eminent figure of the Douro Valley, fell into the river in a boating accident. Dona Antónia survived, but the Baron drowned. The locals say in jest that her voluminous skirt saved her, while the Baron sank because his pockets were filled with gold coins.
Maria Ferreira, a former teacher who oversees enotourism at Vale Meão, picked us up at the Pocinho train station in a vintage Land Rover. Though not related to Dona Antónia, Maria speaks about the estate with such passion it feels as though she is part of the family. An eagle followed the Land Rover as we drove through Cortes de Veiga, a village created to house the many laborers who worked at Vale Meão between 1885 and 1887.
The name Meão, which means “middle,” refers to the river encircling the property, making it feel like an island. The vineyards are planted on a magnificent plateau by the river.
Maria took us on an exhilarating safari through the vineyards. We then visited Barca Velha, a cellar built in 1892 named after an old rowboat used to cross the river. Here, Fernando Nicolau d’Almeida crafted the first Barca Velha in 1952, combining grapes from Vale Meão with those grown at higher altitudes in Meda to craft a table wine that became iconic.
Our tour concluded at the main house, constructed by Dona Antónia in 1894. We were warmly received by three of her descendants: Francisco Olazabal, known as Vito, his son Francisco, known as Xito, and his daughter Luísa. They welcomed us with a refreshing white Monte Meão, made from a blend of two grape varietals grown at opposite ends of the estate—Arinto in the sedimentary soils of the north and Rabigato in the schist soils of the south. This wine beautifully showcases the diversity of the terroirs at Vale Meão.
As we talked to Vito, Xito, and Luísa, it became clear that wine is a language to them. Soils and grape varietals are like words that can express human craftsmanship and the whims of the seasons to make wine as fine as poetry. Their passion for wine is only matched by the generosity with which they share the fruits of this extraordinary place with those who visit.
We tasted the Monte Meão Vinha da Cantina, a surprising wine made from baga, a red grape from Bairrada. While in Bairrada, baga produces tannic, robust reds; here, it yields a light (11.5% alcohol), vibrant wine.
Next, we enjoyed a remarkable Monte Meão Touriga Nacional from the granite soils of Vinha dos Novos. It has a crimson color, a delicate floral aroma, and a supine elegance on the palate. It was followed by a beautiful Monte Meão from Casa das Máquinas, home to the estate’s oldest vineyards that combines Touriga Francesa and Tinta Barroca.
The tasting of table wines concluded with two stunning Vale Meão vintages. The 2014 vintage is a complex, alluring wine, and the 2002 vintage is exquisite in its subtlety and refinement.
Then, port wines entered the scene. First, a 10-year-old tawny, which is all that a great tawny can be, offering notes of nuts, coffee, chocolate, and orange rind to enchant the palate. Then, a stunning 1999 colheita, that is richly satisfying.
In 1999, Vito took a significant risk by leaving his safe position as a director at Sogrape, the large wine company that acquired most of Dona Antónia’s properties, to start a new family project under the Vale Meão name. The many accolades earned since then, including inclusion in the Wine Spectator’s list of the world’s top 5 wines, show clearly that the risk paid off. From her celestial vantage point, Dona Antónia must be beaming with pride.
In 1926, the Michelin Guide began classifying restaurants into “vau l’etape” (worth stopping), “vaut le detour” (worth going out of your way for), and “vaut le voyage” (destination restaurants).
We are often asked which are the destination restaurants outside of Lisbon and Porto. Here are our very own recommendations listed in alphabetical order.
Chef Julie Marteleira and her sister Jennie left successful careers in Toronto to open a restaurant near the Portuguese village where their parents married. Alta, at Praia da Areia Branca, offers the freshest ingredients, exceptional preparation, and stunning ocean views.
Located in Évora, a beautiful Roman town, this restaurant seats only eight people and takes no reservations. It is worthwhile to arrive early to feast on the traditional food from Alentejo prepared by Florbela Canelas and served by her husband Domingos.
A royal retreat built by King Charles I and converted into a luxury hotel in the early 20th century. This place has everything: a majestic setting, iconic wines exclusive to the hotel, and delicious food prepared by Nelson Marques, a talented young chef.
Brazilian chef Michele Marques has lived in Portugal for so long that she almost lost her Brazilian accent. But her approach to cooking food in Alentejo remains unique—a magical combination of authenticity and creativity that always produces memorable meals.
This restaurant is in Porto Covo, a seaside village so beautiful that it inspired an eponymous song by singer Rui Veloso. Chef Ana Moura offers a cuisine that is elegant, creative, and full of flavor, making every meal feel like a summer vacation.
Chef Ricardo Nogueira is renowned throughout Portugal for his delicious roasted suckling pig. His restaurant is a gathering place for great Bairrada winemakers like Mário Sérgio, Filipa, and Luis Pato. The restaurant offers their wonderful wines at modest prices.
The culinary queen of the kingdom of Algarve did not inherit the throne. She conquered it by cooking the pristine seafood of the Algarve with such reverence and care that every meal is like a prayer.
In the shade of the castle at Alter do Chão Filipe Ramalho, serves a delicious evolution of traditional Alentejo cooking. Do not miss his classic tart, cooked with farinheira sausage made with chestnut flour, topped with pears cooked in wine, quince marmalade, and chard.
Located in Ervedosa do Douro, surrounded by some of the best vineyards in the Douro Valley, Dona Graça and her daughter Rosário use almost forgotten recipes to make food that satisfies the soul.
La Rosa was among the first estates in the Douro Valley to welcome guests. Over thirty years ago, several rustic houses were converted into accommodations, allowing visitors to stay amidst some of the region’s finest vines. The lodgings are simple, but the views are magnificent. Across the river, olive groves and vineyards ascend a steep hill. Below, the river flows without a care, its green waters sparkling in the sunlight like diamonds set in green turquoise.
In the morning, the sun casts a golden glow over the vines, gently evaporating the dew and steadily raising the temperature. This process helps maintain the freshness of the grapes, which contributes to the wine’s unique character.
We wake up to the sounds of boats gliding on the river and roosters singing, accompanied by a choir of birds. It’s wonderful to sit in the shade and enjoy the stunning landscape. The terrace of the breakfast room offers one of the best views in the Douro Valley.
At the turn of the 20th century, the estate was known as Quinta das Bateiras and belonged to António Reis, a local doctor. The Feuerheards, a family of German port shippers, bought the quinta as a christening present for their granddaughter Claire. Her father renamed it La Rosa after a successful brand of sherry his company had launched. He used the estate’s grapes to make port under the Feuerheard label.
In 1935, the Feuerheard shipping company went bankrupt, but Claire kept the estate because it was her personal property. When Claire divorced in 1946, she moved to La Rosa and lived there until she died in 1972. The beauty of the place compensated for the challenges of running an estate that was always in need of maintenance and repairs. To make up for the remote location, Claire hosted lively house parties for visitors and neighbors.
When, in 1988, Sophie Bergqvist, Claire’s granddaughter, took over the business with her father, the estate was in disrepair. Sophie started making port under the La Rosa name. In 1991, she enlisted David Baverstock, a famous enologist, to make one of the first Douro table wines. Since then, the fame of the wines has continued to grow. In 2002, another renowned enologist, Jorge Moreira, took over wine-making at La Rosa. Prizes and accolades continue to accumulate. If Claire were alive today, she would undoubtedly throw a grand party to celebrate the success of La Rosa.
Quinta de La Rosa, situated near Pinhão, is easily recognizable by its main entrance adorned with wooden statues of the eagles featured on the family crest. Click here for their website.
Casa Tradição is located near Lisbon’s old cathedral, a neighborhood rarely visited by locals. The restaurant has rustic decor, so we went in expecting a traditional meal. But our waiter mentioned a tasting menu, and we tried it.
Dinner began with an assortment of bread served with creamy nut butter and fragrant olive oil from Porto de Mós, the hometown of the restaurant’s chef, Samuel Mota.
Then, the unexpected delights started. First, a martini glass brimming with ice held a slice of apple marinated in citrus and spices, evoking the essence of a frozen sangria. Then, a crisp mini baguette layered with Serra cheese and exquisite Pata Negra prosciutto.
But the clearest sign that this would be a memorable night came next: a pastry resembling a pastel de nata crowned with smoked codfish and filled with a blend that echoes the flavors of traditional creamed codfish.
We were still recovering from this moment of deliciousness when we were served a cabbage tempura stuffed with migas made from beans and olives. The rich and satisfying taste was reminiscent of a Portuguese sausage called alheira.
The seafood entrée was stunning: a delicately cooked large Algarve shrimp served with a broth and fermented lupini beans. The fish course was a perfectly cooked corvina with asparagus and açorda made with fish roe.
The seventh step to culinary heaven was faux cabidela rice. Traditionally made with vinegar and chicken blood, it was ingeniously reimagined as a beetroot risotto, subtly enhanced with raspberry vinaigrette, and served with succulent guineafowl cooked with bacon.
The meal concluded with a moist pão de ló and a foam crafted from Serra cheese. Chef Samuel’s five-year tenure at the acclaimed Belcanto helped prepare him to follow his imagination. Though rooted in tradition, his creations brim with innovative, delicious culinary ideas.
Casa Tradição is located at Travessa do Almargem, n. 4, Lisbon, tel. 967-340-913. Click here for their website.
Salt of Portugal 