André Manz, a Brazilian soccer player turned entrepreneur, was searching for a place to build offices on the outskirts of Lisbon. He liked a small village near Mafra called Cheleiros. There, he bought the Orchard of the Holy Spirit (Pomar do Espírito Santo), named for its proximity to the Holy Spirit chapel. His wife Margarida fell in love with the orchard and convinced André to use it to build their home and locate the offices elsewhere.
When they moved to Cheleiros, an elderly lady called Dona Celeste told André that in the old days everybody in the village made their own wine. There were 43 wine presses in a village with only 800 people. André said that it would be cool to produce wine and Dona Celeste seized the opportunity to sell him her abandoned vineyard.
When enologists came to study the old vines, they concluded that the red grapes were “castelão” but they couldn’t identify the white grapes. André told Dona Celeste about their difficulties and she replied “Young people don’t know anything! Those grapes are jampal.” This is a grape varietal that was considered extinct. It produces small grapes so, in years gone by when quantity trumped quality, farmers replaced it with higher-yielding varietals. The wine institute sent technicians to certify that the grapes are indeed jampal and André became the world’s sole producer of jampal wine.
In the first few years, André bottled the wine in plain bottles. He gave a few to his friends and consumed the rest in his household. On the occasion of an important lunch, André decided to put some labels on the wine. He called it Dona Fátima, the name of his mother in law. When the bottles arrived at the table, Dona Fátima was delighted. “Why did you name the wine after me?” she asked André with curiosity. “Because of its acidity,” quipped André.
When Julia Harding and Jancis Robinson were working on their book, The World of Grapes, they contacted André to see if they could get a bottle of jampal wine. They liked it so much that they included it in their selection of the 50 best Portuguese wines.
Since then, it has become very hard to buy one of the 6,000 bottles of Dona Fátima produced every year. If you see one in a wine store make sure you get it. If not, drive to the village of Cheleiros, to try one of the world’s most unique wines.
Click here for Manzwine’s web site.
5 thoughts on “A glass of Jampal wine?”
Cheers from Australia, Thank you for sharing your love of Portugal. We enjoy your posts immensely, so much so we are visiting from August 24 to October 3 in 2019. Steve & I are a retired couple who love surfing, good food & fine wine. We like the idea of Ericeira as a base to explore. These old Salties would like to know if you could assist us? Warm regards Suzanne & Stephen Johnson
Hi Suzanne, thank you so much for visiting our blog. We don’t provide logistic support but we are happy to answer your questions. Ericeira is a great choice if you like to surf.
Hi Suzanne, 🙂
Yes, for surfing you have Ericeira – Ribeira D’Ilhas beach (how was “saltofportugal saying. Hi saltofportugal 🙂 ) or Peniche – Supertubos beach too..
In both places you have good food, but in Ericeira you have.. my salvation restaurant.. lol If you go check out my blog, you can read something about “Casa Portuguesa- Ericeira”.
But if you want see some different restaurants, ask saltofportugal. 🙂
Enjoy your time in Portugal, and good surfing. 🤙
Boas, Desculpa a intromissão no teu blog e na conversa.
Parabens pelo blog, está muito bom. 🙂
Sem problema, obrigado pela visita ao nosso blog.