A potato called raíz de cana

On the night before Christmas, Portuguese tables are graced with food from near and far. Local staples like cabbage and olive oil accompany codfish from the icy waters of Norway, Iceland, and Newfoundland. Potatoes, originally brought from South America in the 16th century, are a mainstay of the culinary feast.

It is thought that the first potato planted on Portuguese soil was “raíz de cana.” It became popular on the west coast of Portugal because its firm texture makes it ideal to use in fish stews or cook with salted skate, a local delicacy.

Raiz de cana has an irregular shape that makes it difficult to peel, so over time, it lost favor with cooks. It might have vanished if it weren’t for Raul Reis, an entrepreneur who moved from Luxembourg to Sobral, near Lourinhã. He discovered raíz de cana in a small village called Cesaredas and began cultivating it. Thanks to Raul, these potatoes are now featured in Portugal’s finest restaurants.

João Rodrigues, a famous Portuguese chef, liked raíz de cana so much that he created some recipes that showcase it. One of them is the recipe for potato salad we share below. 

You can try the recipe with another potato variety or visit João Rodrigues’ new restaurant in Lisbon (Canalha) to taste the real thing!

Potato salad

Ingredients

  • 8 raíz de cana potatoes
  • 2 large pickled cucumbers (cornichons)
  • One rose onion
  • 3 tablespoons of chives
  • One egg
  • ½ garlic clove
  • Sweetened yogurt
  • 1 tablespoon of mustard
  • Water from the pickles
  • White wine vinegar
  • Sunflower oil
  • Salt
  • Fleur de sel
  • Pepper
  • Olive oil

Preparation

  1. In a glass, combine the egg, mustard, sunflower oil, olive oil, and vinegar. Use an immersion blender to mix everything very slowly and thoroughly.
  2. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.
  3. Add yogurt, grate the garlic into it, and put in a little bit of the pickle juice to taste. Mix everything well.
  4. Thoroughly wash the potatoes with their skins on.
  5. Place the potatoes in a pot with cold water and salt, then bring them to a boil to cook.
  6. Once cooked, remove the potatoes, peel them, and season with olive oil and fleu de sel.
  7. Cut the potatoes in halves and arrange them on a serving dish.
  8. Top the potatoes with the previously prepared mayonnaise.
  9. Finish by sprinkling chopped red onion, cucumber pickles, and chives over the top.

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