Casa Tradição is located near Lisbon’s old cathedral, a neighborhood rarely visited by locals. The restaurant has rustic decor, so we went in expecting a traditional meal. But our waiter mentioned a tasting menu, and we tried it.

Dinner began with an assortment of bread served with creamy nut butter and fragrant olive oil from Porto de Mós, the hometown of the restaurant’s chef, Samuel Mota.

Then, the unexpected delights started. First, a martini glass brimming with ice held a slice of apple marinated in citrus and spices, evoking the essence of a frozen sangria. Then, a crisp mini baguette layered with Serra cheese and exquisite Pata Negra prosciutto. 

But the clearest sign that this would be a memorable night came next: a pastry resembling a pastel de nata crowned with smoked codfish and filled with a blend that echoes the flavors of traditional creamed codfish.

We were still recovering from this moment of deliciousness when we were served a cabbage tempura stuffed with migas made from beans and olives. The rich and satisfying taste was reminiscent of a Portuguese sausage called alheira. 

The seafood entrée was stunning: a delicately cooked large Algarve shrimp served with a broth and fermented lupini beans. The fish course was a perfectly cooked corvina with asparagus and açorda made with fish roe.

The seventh step to culinary heaven was faux cabidela rice. Traditionally made with vinegar and chicken blood, it was ingeniously reimagined as a beetroot risotto, subtly enhanced with raspberry vinaigrette, and served with succulent guineafowl cooked with bacon.

The meal concluded with a moist pão de ló and a foam crafted from Serra cheese. Chef Samuel’s five-year tenure at the acclaimed Belcanto helped prepare him to follow his imagination. Though rooted in tradition, his creations brim with innovative, delicious culinary ideas.

Casa Tradição is located at Travessa do Almargem, n. 4, Lisbon, tel. 967-340-913. Click here for their website.