–Lisbon

Two fabulous days in Lisbon

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The Romans called it Felicitas Julia, a city so blessed it deserved Julius Caesar’s protection. Those blessings endure: a mild climate, a deep river that flows serenely to the sea, a natural harbor that shelters ships from Atlantic storms, and hills that reach for the sky.

In 1620, Friar Nicolau de Oliveira wrote that Lisbon, like Rome, has seven hills. In truth, there are only three major elevations: the castle hill, Graça, and Bairro Alto. But in spirit, he was right: the streets rise and fall so much that, in the early 20th century, trams and elevators were built to help residents get around.

First Day

Begin your visit at St. George’s Castle. In the twelfth century, most of Lisbon lay within its walls. Below lies Alfama, whose Arabic name survived the city’s conquest by Portugal’s first king, Dom Afonso Henriques, in 1147. According to legend, a knight called Martim Moniz sacrificed his life, wedging his body in the castle gate so his fellow soldiers could break through. A square at the foot of the hill bears his name.

By the eighteenth century, Alfama was a poor neighborhood. The wealthy had relocated to Baixa, Bairro Alto, and Chiado. The 1755 earthquake devastated much of Lisbon but spared Alfama, a survival some interpreted as divine justice.

It is easy to get lost in Alfama’s winding streets lined with cobblestones, tile facades, and marble thresholds. A simple rule will help you find your way: uphill leads to the castle, downhill to the city center. 

From the castle walls, the Tagus River dominates the horizon. Below lies Terreiro do Paço, the courtyard of the royal palace destroyed by the earthquake.  Squint and you might imagine Baroque carriages arriving with courtiers seeking the king’s favor.

For a leisurely lunch, walk toward the Pantheon, a monumental church whose construction spanned more than three centuries. Nearby, Solo, inside the Santa Clara 1738 hotel, offers refined Portuguese cuisine made with the finest ingredients and served in an elegant setting. 

After lunch, continue to Terreiro do Paço. At the river’s edge stands Cais das Colunas, the dock marked by two marble pillars where visitors once arrived by ship. Before air travel, this was Lisbon’s grand entrance. In the center of the square, the equestrian statue of King Dom José I greets you.

Walk toward the triumphal arch at the entrance of Augusta Street, named for one of the king’s daughters. You can take an elevator to the top for superb views. To the west stretches the Tagus River; to the east lies the orderly grid of the Baixa district, built after the earthquake under the direction of the king’s prime minister, the Marquis of Pombal. 

The streets were organized by trade. In Rua do Ouro and Rua da Prata (Gold and Silver Streets), jewelers worked the precious metals arriving from Brazil. Merchants on Rua dos Fanqueiros sold woolen cloth, while Rua dos Correeiros specialized in leather equipment for horses and carriages. 

From there, walk to Rossio. On the way, stop at Largo de São Domingos to savor a glass of ginjinha, the sweet cherry liqueur beloved by poet Fernando Pessoa. 

Next, climb to Chiado for a pastel de nata at Manteigaria, where the crust is perfectly crisp and the custard delicately perfumed with lemon. Eat only one. Then cross to the Hotel do Bairro Alto terrace for a second. Try not to let the sweeping view cloud your judgment: which pastry wins your favor? The terrace is a wonderful place to rest before dinner. We include a list of restaurant suggestions below.

After dark, nothing expresses Lisbon’s soul like fado. Dressed in black, singers are accompanied by classical and Portuguese guitars, the latter a 12-string instrument with a distinctive mournful sound. Out of respect for the music, the audience is asked to remain silent. The singers’ voices hover between notes, producing pitches that a piano cannot play. They slow or quicken the tempo, confident that the musicians will follow. We are especially fond of the young fadista Beatriz Felício. If she is performing, don’t miss her.

Second day

Start the day at the Time Out market. Many come for a quick meal, but you’re here to visit the adjacent farmers’ market. Browse the seasonal fruits and vegetables on display, then stop by the fish stall, which showcases some of the world’s freshest fish. 

If you need refreshment, Bar da Odete offers a wonderful range of wines by the glass, curated by enologist Frederico Vilar Gomes. You can buy some of these wines at Garrafeira Nacional, a shop inside the market.

Continue toward Belém to visit the Belém Tower, an ornate fortress built to defend Lisbon from pirates, yet making the city even more alluring. Before the 1755 earthquake, the tower stood in the middle of the river rather than near the shore.

To the south stands the Monument to the Discoveries, a procession of stone figures led by Prince Henry the Navigator. Beginning in the 1420s, Portuguese sailors departed from Restelo into the unknown in ships called caravels, which, for the first time, could tack to sail against the wind. 

In his epic poem Os Lusíadas, Luís Vaz de Camões imagines an old man on the shore warning that the quest for glory would bring suffering rather than triumph. In material terms, the discoveries were an extraordinary success. Vasco da Gama reached India, opening a sea route for the spice trade. Cabral reached Brazil, and ships soon returned to Lisbon laden first with brazilwood and, later, with gold. Yet these riches came at a terrible human cost. Many sailors perished in shipwrecks or from diseases, especially scurvy, caused by months at sea without fresh provisions, living on little more than hard biscuit.

Just to the east rises the magnificent Jerónimos Monastery, built with the wealth of the maritime empire. Its Manueline architecture blends late Gothic style with nautical motifs. Inside are the tombs of kings and queens, as well as Vasco da Gama and Luís Vaz de Camões.

To the north is the Cultural Center of Belém, a modern art complex built from stone from the same quarry as the monastery. Its concerts and exhibitions are worth checking out.

If you crave grilled fish, the modest O Último Porto, open only for lunch and patronized mostly by locals, serves fresh fish grilled to perfection. Robalo is always a great choice, and the mullets are divine.  

Skip dessert. You must return to Belém for the city’s most famous custard, the Pastel de Belém. The bakery has produced them since 1837, using a secret recipe shared by monks after the dissolution of the religious orders in 1834. Enjoy one warm pastry dusted with cinnamon, a fragrant echo of the spice trade that enriched Portugal. Now that you have tasted the city’s most celebrated pasteis de nata, which is your favorite? 

End the day at MAAT, the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology. It offers interesting exhibitions and a roof that is one of the finest places to watch the sunset in Lisbon. As the sun sinks into the Atlantic, Lisbon’s hills glow amber, the color of the gold that once made it rich.

Here are some practical suggestions

Where to stay

Our favorite place to stay in Lisbon is Santa Clara 1728, a small hotel that exudes tranquility and elegance. It is part of Silent Living, a unique collection of hotels designed to help guests reconnect with place and nature.

The Pestana Palace, built around an early-20th-century palace, is another favorite. Set away from the center and surrounded by gardens, it offers a peaceful respite from the city’s bustle.

The Ritz Four Seasons is a mid-century modern landmark that provides classic old-world luxury.

Hotel do Bairro Alto, in the heart of Chiado, combines a central location with excellent service.

Where to eat

Not long ago, one could walk into almost any restaurant and enjoy an honest, modestly priced meal of local food and wine. Today, many restaurants cater primarily to tourists. To taste authentic cuisine, you need guidance, but rest assured, we’re here to provide it.

Lisbon’s fine-dining scene is vibrant. Belcanto, led by José Avillez, has elevated Portuguese cuisine while staying true to its roots. His recent book on Portuguese cuisine makes a wonderful gift for a gourmet friend. Marlene, by chef Marlene Vieira, reinterprets tradition with imagination and finesse. Loco, led by chef Alexandre Silva, offers exuberantly creative dishes made with local ingredients.

Beyond the Michelin constellation, many excellent restaurants await discovery. We mentioned two of our favorites in the main text. Solo offers a lunch menu where each dish is crafted from pristine organic ingredients sourced from Casa no Tempo. Último Porto is a rustic restaurant known for perfectly grilled fish.

Zun Zum, Marlene Vieira’s bistro, showcases superb Portuguese ingredients prepared with inventiveness. Try their signature dish: “filhoses de berbigão,” large cockles served on star-shaped fried dough filled with a cream made from cockle broth, coriander, and lemon.

For seafood, Cervejaria Ramiro remains our top choice. It is noisy and crowded, but it is worth it. Reservations are not accepted, so arrive early. Do not miss the clams à Bulhão Pato, a classic of Portuguese cuisine.

Tasca da Esquina, by Vítor Sobral, consistently serves excellent interpretations of traditional dishes.

Canalha offers impeccable seasonal ingredients, prepared with precision. This acclaimed bistro is led by chef João Rodrigues, who left his Michelin stars behind to cook simple, deeply satisfying food. 

Casa Tradição offers inventive takes on classic recipes by Samuel Mota, a chef who trained at Belcanto.

Our favorite vegetarian restaurant is Touta, led by Lebanese chef Cynthia Bitar.

Other favorites include Belmiro (excellent empadas and rice dishes), Salsa e Coentros, and Magano.

For wine lovers, we recommend a visit to Quinta de Chocapalha, a superb producer near Lisbon.

Museums

The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum has one of the world’s finest private art collections, reflecting the founder’s motto: “only the best.” A visit is a journey spanning 5,000 years of human creativity. Among the collection’s highlights is Almada Negreiros’ portrait of the poet Fernando Pessoa.

Two major museums are currently closed for renovations. The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga preserves Portugal’s most important collection of paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts. Housed in a former convent, Museu Nacional do Azulejo offers a collection of five centuries of Portuguese tile art, including a breathtaking panoramic panel of the city before the 1755 earthquake.

Shopping

We love Vista Alegre, a company that has produced beautiful porcelain since 1824. Its stores are spread throughout the city, with the most iconic located in Chiado. Nearby is Cutipol, a producer of elegant cutlery.

A Vida Portuguesa offers a carefully curated selection of artisanal products made with exceptional craftsmanship. 

Reverso is a jewelry gallery featuring whimsical, elegant modern pieces.

Activities for kids

A visit to Lisbon’s outstanding Oceanarium is a perfect activity not only for kids but for anyone interested in the mysteries of the ocean and the protection of marine ecosystems.

Cruising the Tagus River aboard Santa Fé, a beautifully restored vintage boat, is one of the best ways to see the city. 

Jezzus is a great place for pizza, a meal that kids are likely to enjoy.

Day trips

There are several historical towns on the outskirts of Lisbon that are well worth visiting. Sintra, once the summer residence of the Portuguese kings, is a fairy-tale village crowned by a Moorish castle and dotted with several enchanting palaces. Queluz offers a graceful palace with elegant gardens inspired by Versailles.

Mafra stands on a grander scale. This vast convent, built with the wealth of Portugal’s maritime empire, houses one of the world’s most beautiful libraries. The convent’s construction inspired José Saramago’s celebrated novel Baltasar and Blimunda, published in 1982—a book that will enrich any visit to Mafra.

And then there is Óbidos, a perfectly preserved medieval town, offered by King Dom Dinis to his bride, Isabel of Aragon.

Revisiting Santa Clara

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If god is in the details, then Santa Clara, our favorite hotel in Lisbon, is truly blessed. We arrived on a Friday afternoon, weary from a bumper-car-like ride through the city’s busy streets. As soon as we entered Santa Clara, a sense of calm embraced us.

We climbed the stairs slowly, savoring each step. The old lioz, the marble of Lisbon, turned pale by the passage of time blends seamlessly with the soft pink of the newer lioz, creating harmony between past and present.

Our bedroom felt like home. A spacious foyer welcomed us with a plush sofa and a generous bowl of ripe cherries. From the west-facing windows, Lisbon unfolds in all its grandeur: the Pantheon’s majestic dome rising above a sea of orange rooftops, its white stone luminous against the blue shimmer of the Tagus River. More than three centuries in the making, the Pantheon reminds us that some things are worth the wait.

To the east, the bathroom windows open to a tranquil garden planted with lemon trees, where a small choir of birds greeted us. 

The walls and closets are painted in a soft grey that is the perfect frame for the Pantheon’s radiant white. A simple geometry gives the room a sense of serenity. Pine planks draw the eye outward, to views framed by curtains that sway like skirts of ballet dancers caught in a gentle breeze.

In the bathroom, a grand bathtub, hewn from a single block of marble, stands beside two cylindrical basins sculpted from solid stone. Handmade tiles catch and scatter the light, while a thin line of marble placed at eye level evokes a far-off horizon, separating earth from sky.

After dinner, we retired to our room with the sense of being where we belonged. In the morning, sunlight poured in—joyous and bright. We made our way to breakfast—coffee, fresh bread, sweet fruit, creamy yogurt, eggs, and wild mushrooms. We lingered at the table, reluctant to part with this place that is so quietly beautiful.

Santa Clara 1728 is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128 in Lisbon, tel. 964 362 816, email booking@silentliving.pt. Click here for the hotel website.

Dining at Ceia with Alex Atala

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Dining at Ceia is always a singular experience, but even more so when shared with the legendary Brazilian chef Alex Atala, seated humbly among the guests as if he were a mere mortal.

Lisbon’s most elegant table was adorned with the bark of a cork tree, harvested on the thirtieth anniversary of its growth. Draped in moss, mushrooms, and delicate flowers, it set the stage for a menu designed by chef Renato Bonfim and inspired by Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights.

The meal began with a whisper—an ethereal broth of ginger and algae, offering no hint of the wonders to come. A bowl soon appeared, strewn with moss and topped with chopsticks decorated with flowers. Nestled beneath the blossoms was a sublime tartare of carabineiros, the crimson prawns of the Algarve. “I was trained as a Bocusian,” Atala said, referring to Paul Bocuse, the patriarch of nouvelle cuisine. “I expect the food to be on the plate, but here, the food is beyond the plate.” A joyful Blanc de Noirs from Bairrada, fittingly named Dinamite, kept us good company.

Then came Water: a delicious composition of tomato, coriander oil, and a sorbet of toasted bread and garlic. Kristin Liebold, the gracious maître d’, poured glasses of Tepache she had crafted herself—a lightly fermented pineapple elixir that brightened the palate.

Another delight soon followed: slices of savory garlic cheesecake, adorned with white blossoms, served with perfectly fried hake from the Azores. The fish was prepared in a traditional style:  marinated in milk, lemon, salt, and pepper, then delicately fried in tempura batter. 

Atala reflected on how his time in Italy had taught him the importance of simplicity and repetition in dishes like fried fish. “Every Sunday, the mother cooks for the family,” he said, “but when the nonna (grandmother) prepares the same dish, it becomes a feast. The ingredients don’t change—but the nonna brings a deeper understanding, born of repetition and a lifetime of attention to detail.”

An exquisite wine, whimsically called Viagem ao Princípio do Mundo (journey to the beginning of the world), filled our glasses. It is made with Alvarinho grapes grown in Melgaço and aged in sherry casks.

We were then invited into the garden, where, under flickering candlelight, oysters from Setúbal arrived dressed in spinach and algae, gently cooked in a Bulhão Pato style. Atala spoke about the importance of authenticity and of how this dish marries local ingredients and time-honored techniques with a sense of modernity.

Back in the dining room, the next course arrived: cordyceps mushrooms cleverly disguised as pasta. They were glazed in aged balsamic and served with a warm, buttery brioche, the perfect partner to their umami taste. A luminous white wine from António Madeira in the Dão lent the moment a festive air.

The final savory dish was a richly flavored wild boar terrine, served with oven-cooked rice and bread made from roasted quiabos (okra).

Dessert began with a leche de tigre jelly, adorned with nasturtiums and elderflower. Then came a mousse sculpted in the shape of Silent Living’s Herdade no Tempo, the estate that supplied much of the pristine produce featured throughout the meal. The mousse was encircled by an orchestra of cherries: fresh, roasted, and infused with lemon. 

A 2000 vintage Port crowned an unforgettable meal that Renato Bonfim and his youthful brigade cooked for Alex Atala, a philosopher-chef who sees food in its fullness: as ingredient and craft, as joy and communion.

Ceia is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128. Lisbon. Click here for the restaurant’s website.

Savoring pasteis de nata at Hotel do Bairro Alto

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In Lisbon, pastéis de nata inspire near-religious devotion. And with good reason–these delicate tarts, made of flaky layers of puff pastry and filled with a luscious cream of eggs and milk, offer a glimpse of heaven on earth.

Some Lisboetas are devoted to a neighborhood pastry shop that proudly displays the words Fabrico Próprio on its façade, signaling that its pastries are made in-house. But the city’s most revered pastry sanctuary is the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, which has been drawing pilgrims since it first opened its doors in 1834.

Manteigaria is a more recent cult whose crisp, lemon-kissed tarts have earned a loyal following. Its original Chiado location has become a popular pastry shrine.

There is also Pastelaria Aloma, a bakery in Campo d’Ourique, which rose to fame after winning national competitions in 2012 and 2013.

Just when we thought we had tasted all the city’s holy pastries, we stumbled upon a new revelation, hidden in plain sight at the recently renovated Hotel do Bairro Alto. Its pastéis are extraordinary. The custard, radiant yellow and delicately scented, has just the right touch of sweetness. The crust is golden, crisp, and exquisitely flaky with seven layers that echo Lisbon’s seven hills.

When we asked the servers about the recipe’s ingredients, they nodded politely and walked away. But on the final morning, a waitress slipped us a handwritten note with the ingredients. The secret? The filling is made not with cream, but with milk and cornstarch, lending it an ethereal lightness. The crust’s sublime texture is achieved through a blend of butter and pork lard.

So here is an insider’s tip: if you find yourself near Chiado, step into the Hotel do Bairro Alto and take the elevator to the fifth floor. Settle into the serene terrace overlooking the Tagus River and order some pasteis de nata. As you sit there, savoring these sweet devotions, you’re likely to find yourself at peace.

Hotel do Bairro Alto, Praça Luís de Camões 2, Lisbon, tel. 213 408 288, email: reservations@bairroaltohotel.com. Click here for the hotel’s website.

Chef Marlene Vieira is a star

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Since the dawn of civilization, Babylonians, Egyptians, and Greeks have studied the skies to chart the stars. But these luminous bodies shined whether or not they were included in celestial atlases.

Last Tuesday, Marlene received a Michelin star—a richly deserved honor that celebrates her extraordinary talent and dedication. But long before this important accolade, her light had already illuminated the world of gastronomy. What fuels her radiance is the belief that cooking is an act of love. Each time we dine at her Zun Zum restaurant, we feel not just deeply satisfied but cared for.

Now, at the restaurant that bears her name, Marlene is elevating Portuguese cuisine to new heights. The space exudes serenity, with the kitchen at its heart—an altar where ingredients are transformed into a transcendent gastronomical experience. The menu evolves constantly, and once a recipe leaves, it does not return, making each meal a singular experience.

Guiding this culinary journey alongside Marlene is Chef Mário Cruz. He searches land and sea for exquisite treasures—sea urchins, Algarve red shrimp, wild mushrooms, cuttlefish, mullet, octopus, and partridge. 

The food is visually stunning, but, more importantly, it is delicious and it has soul. The irresistible cornbread, kneaded from white corn, wheat, and rye, follows Marlene’s grandmother’s recipe. The Azorean bluefin tuna, cured as if it were prosciutto, accompanied by gazpacho served in a bowl lined with sumac, transported us to the Algarve, to a sunlit table by the sea.

The partridge is cooked according to a famous recipe. During the Napoleonic invasions, General Junot’s troops looted the library of the Alcântara Monastery. Among the stolen manuscripts was a recipe for partridge stuffed with foie gras and truffles. Junot sent it to his wife, who introduced it to France as “Partridge, Alcântara style.” The renowned chef Auguste Escoffier declared it one of the finest spoils of the Napoleonic wars. Marlene’s reimagined version of this historic dish is so extraordinary that it might provoke another French invasion.

Marlene Vieira is a star–not because she has been recognized among the constellations of fine dining, but because she has always shined.  If you find yourself in Lisbon, take the time to sit at her table to savor the brilliance of her cuisine.

Marlene is located at Av. Infante D. Henrique, Doca do Jardim do Tabaco, Lisboa, tel. 351 912 626 761, email marlene@marlene.pt.

Ceia’s new menu

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As John Coltrane’s career evolved, his music underwent a profound transformation. He began as a virtuoso, dazzling audiences with his fluency and flair. But then, he transcended virtuosity, creating music that other players could not imagine because it came from a deeper source of inspiration.

The evolution of Ceia parallels this creative arch. From its inception, this restaurant, nestled within Lisbon’s most elegant hotel, offered unforgettable culinary experiences. But its current menu, orchestrated by a team led by chef Renato Bonfim, transcends technical skill to offer food that is new and exciting.

Titled Change, the menu is a series of culinary moments inspired by our planet and the way we interact with it. Most produce comes from Herdade no Tempo an estate in Alentejo that follows regenerative agriculture practices. Ceia transforms these products into elegies of cooking and celebrations of flavor. 

We generally like to describe the tastes, aromas, and sensations that the food evokes, but Ceia’s menu is so unique that revealing too much would detract from its magic. What we can tell you is that the names of the menu entries could be titles of Coltrane tunes: Ocean, Carbon, Air, You Look but Don’t Sea, Solo. 

The service at Ceia, as seamless as always, keeps the guests in a state of enchantment. Francisco Guilerme curates a pairing of rare wines that elevate every dish and Kristin Liebold offers an exquisite selection of non-alcoholic drinks.

Ceia is creating new culinary melodies from a deeper source of inspiration to feed our hunger and nourish our souls. 

Ceia is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128. Lisbon. Click here for the restaurant’s website.

Tradition and modernity at Casa Tradição

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Casa Tradição is located near Lisbon’s old cathedral, a neighborhood rarely visited by locals. The restaurant has rustic decor, so we went in expecting a traditional meal. But our waiter mentioned a tasting menu, and we tried it.

Dinner began with an assortment of bread served with creamy nut butter and fragrant olive oil from Porto de Mós, the hometown of the restaurant’s chef, Samuel Mota.

Then, the unexpected delights started. First, a martini glass brimming with ice held a slice of apple marinated in citrus and spices, evoking the essence of a frozen sangria. Then, a crisp mini baguette layered with Serra cheese and exquisite Pata Negra prosciutto. 

But the clearest sign that this would be a memorable night came next: a pastry resembling a pastel de nata crowned with smoked codfish and filled with a blend that echoes the flavors of traditional creamed codfish.

We were still recovering from this moment of deliciousness when we were served a cabbage tempura stuffed with migas made from beans and olives. The rich and satisfying taste was reminiscent of a Portuguese sausage called alheira. 

The seafood entrée was stunning: a delicately cooked large Algarve shrimp served with a broth and fermented lupini beans. The fish course was a perfectly cooked corvina with asparagus and açorda made with fish roe.

The seventh step to culinary heaven was faux cabidela rice. Traditionally made with vinegar and chicken blood, it was ingeniously reimagined as a beetroot risotto, subtly enhanced with raspberry vinaigrette, and served with succulent guineafowl cooked with bacon.

The meal concluded with a moist pão de ló and a foam crafted from Serra cheese. Chef Samuel’s five-year tenure at the acclaimed Belcanto helped prepare him to follow his imagination. Though rooted in tradition, his creations brim with innovative, delicious culinary ideas.

Casa Tradição is located at Travessa do Almargem, n. 4, Lisbon, tel. 967-340-913. Click here for their website.

Touta, the sensuous cuisine of Lebanon in Lisbon

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We heard from the culinary rumor mill that a famous Lebanese chef had moved to Lisbon and opened a restaurant called Touta. So, on a warm spring evening, we climbed the hill from Estrela to Campo de Ourique to try it out.

Rita Abou Ghazaly welcomed us into the gracious dining room decorated with Middle Eastern motifs. She served us hibiscus and rose-petal kombucha while Lebanese music filled the air with the same microtones we hear in fado.  

Dinner started with a basket of Lebanese bread and cheese bonbons—crispy cheese treats wrapped in phyllo dough. Next came a plate of hummus, a combination of chickpeas and tahini sauce that is a staple of Middle Eastern cuisine. This rendition was the best we ever tried. It was topped with soujak meat, pickles, and aquafaba, a sumptuous emulsion of chickpea water that resembles whipped egg whites. It was quickly followed by grilled cabbage with lentils and beetroots delicately seasoned with cured lemons. 

We tried a delicious soup made with a local fish called mero. It reminded us of cação soup, a traditional Alentejo recipe. Finally, we had a spectacular grilled black pork served with black beans, carob marshmallows, and a barbecue sauce made from molasses. Dessert was a simply perfect sweet croquette. 

“What made you decide to open a restaurant in Lisbon?” we asked Rita. “Ask Waël,” Rita said, laughing, “it’s all his doing.” Waël Haddad told us he has had a crush on Lisbon since his first visit ten years ago. “I kept returning and brought my friend Rita and my cousin Touta, a celebrated Lebanese chef. With every visit, our love for the city deepened, and so we started looking for a restaurant location. We explored various neighborhoods until we stumbled upon this perfect spot with a ‘for sale’ sign. Now, here we are, living our dream.”

Chef Cynthia Bitar, affectionately known as Touta, came to greet us. She inherited her passion for cooking from her mother, a famous Middle East caterer. Touta has always been obsessed with cooking.  “When I was a child and went on play dates, I often cooked in my friend’s kitchens. I think about food during the day and dream about it at night.” 

She returned to her family’s catering business after training at the Paul Bocuse Academy in Lyon. But, like Waël and Rita, Touta fell for Lisbon’s charms. She was drawn to the similarity between Lebanese and Portuguese cuisines, the quality of local ingredients, and the warmth of the people. “I found amazing produce in the farmers markets. Try this carrot.” She sliced a small carrot in half so we could experience its aroma and enjoy its sweet taste.” 

Touta took us to the grocery store at the back of the restaurant. Its shelves are full of products from Lebanon and jars with pickles, jams, fermented drinks, and preserved citruses that she prepared. We stayed past midnight, bewitched by Touta’s sensuous cuisine, sampling everything from molasses and infusions to spices like sumac and za’atar.  

In the 15th and 16th centuries, trade with Africa, Asia, and South America turned Lisbon into a hub for global talent. The diverse influx of people profoundly influenced Portuguese culture, cuisine, and art. It is wonderful to see Lisbon once more attracting people who will bring the city to new heights.  Welcome, Waël, Rita, and Touta!

Touta is located at Rua Domingos Sequeira 38 in Lisbon 960 49 49 49. Click here to go to the restaurant’s website.

Garum from Troia

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If you’re looking for a unique gift from Lisbon for a food-loving friend, we have just the thing. Can the Can, a restaurant in Terreiro do Paço, sells flasks of garum. This fermented fish sauce created by the Greeks was coveted throughout the Roman Empire. Like Asian fermented fish sauces, it enhances flavor, adding a rich umami taste.

The Troia peninsula in Setúbal is home to sprawling remains of piscinae, large basins used by the Romans for salting and fermenting fish. Along Portugal’s Atlantic seaboard, this region is ideal for garum production, thanks to its plentiful fish stocks and a climate favorable for fermentation. 

Maria da Luz and Vitor Vicente, two entrepreneurs, revived the production of garum in Troia using mackerel (favored by the Greeks), swordfish, tuna, sea bream, octopus, mullets, and sardines (our favorite). 

In the Roman Empire, garum was a symbol of extravagance. Pliny the Elder described it in his Natural History as a “liquoris exquisiti,” an exquisite liquor. Priced on par with the rarest perfumes, it was reserved for the tables of the affluent. Today, thanks to Can the Can, this nearly forgotten delicacy is both accessible and affordable.

Can the Can is located at Terreiro do Paço, 82/83 in Lisbon. Click here for their website.

Ceia, our favorite place for supper

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The initial thrill of a new experience often fades with repetition, a phenomenon psychologists call hedonic adaptation. Somehow, this human trait does not manifest itself at Ceia, a restaurant in Lisbon that keeps reinventing itself, serving food that is always interesting, new, and delicious. 

Ceia’s culinary team is currently headed by Chef Renato Bonfim, who previously worked at Adega, a Michelin-starred Portuguese restaurant in California. The menu is inspired by the pristine produce from Herdade no Tempo, a beautiful estate in Alentejo that follows regenerative agriculture practices. 

The restaurant, which is part of a project called Silent Living, is located on the ground floor of Santa Clara, an intimate hotel with privileged views of the Tagus River and the Pantheon. Kristin Liebold, a member of the Silent Living team, welcomed us to the spacious courtyard of the historical building that dates back to 1728. She presented us each with glasses of Ode, a refreshing wine crafted near Lisbon from Arinto grapes. As we mingled with other guests, Kristen appeared to whisper a magical incantation. Then a door swung open, unveiling a dining room so perfect it could be the setting for a Vermeer painting.

As we gathered around the table, Renato and his teammates Ricardo Cruz and Tiago Ramos came to greet us and, like the three kings, they brought three offerings. First, slices of sourdough bread accompanied by a sumptuous butter from the Azores and a luscious spread crafted from butter and a type of sausage called alheira. Second, a crispy tartelette made with perfectly seasoned lírio (greater amberjack) and vegetables. Finally, exquisite polenta cubes topped with aioli, garlic, and cheese and nestled in wooden boxes filled with bright yellow corn. Dardas, a bright vinho verde (green wine) made with the Avesso varietal, kept us in great company.

As we debated which of these offerings had most captivated our taste buds, Ricardo introduced a new chapter to our culinary adventure: an algae chowder. It is based on shio koji, a salted Japanese pudding encircled by algae cooked in a Bulhão Pato style. The preparation was crowned with a leaf of the rare Mertensia maritima. We were instructed first to eat the leaf, savor its unique oyster flavor, and then blend a small glass filled with chowder with the algae. The result was an unexpectedly delightful harmony of flavors.

As our glasses filled with a silky Dona Paulette from Quinta de Lemos in the Dão region, we were brought plates of octopus grilled in charcoal, topped with kale, and seasoned with an inventive mole made from grilled peppers and pomegranate—another unusual but perfect combination of flavors and textures.

The next dish featured crispy sarraceno wheat mixed with chanterelles and shiitake mushrooms seasoned with a sauce made from shallots, beer yeast, dehydrated apricots, and raisins. There was so much flavor to process that we closed our eyes to let our brain focus on the gastronomic sensations. A late harvest from the Douro Valley called Aneto complemented the earthy flavors of the dish with a delicate, effusive sweetness.

A sparkling wine made by Sidónio de Sousa in Bairrada ushered the arrival of a turbot from the Azores delicately cooked, dressed with beurre blanc and kombucha, topped with fermented turnip and kohlrabi and finished with a few drops of garum. This Roman fish sauce, which is once again being produced in the Troia peninsula after a hiatus of 15 centuries, added a unique depth to the dish. 

The meat course was a succulent black pork served with a rich purée made from Jerusalem artichokes, chestnuts, and purple onion. It was served with a robust vinhão, a red wine made from a dyer grape called Sousão produced in the vinho verde region by Vale da Raposa. 

The first dessert was an ensemble of panna cotta, chocolate, and matcha powder, garnished with leaves from Madeira that taste like passion fruit. A white port made by Alves de Sousa called Oliveirinha added a velvety smoothness to this symbiosis of flavors.

The second dessert was ginger and pumpkin cooked with Chinese spices, a praline made from pumpkin seeds and seasoned with pollen. 

Our meal concluded with a refreshing lemongrass tea, quindin, a Brazilian coconut pudding, and truffles crafted from 70 percent pure chocolate from the island of São Tomé.

We lingered at the table, talking with the other guests about the culinary experience we had just enjoyed, so replete with unexpected pleasures and delights that we felt like we were dining at Ceia for the very first time.

Ceia is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128. Lisbon. Click here for the restaurant’s website.