Lisbon

A romantic guide to Sintra

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If you only have one day to venture outside Lisbon, spend it in Sintra. The town lies just 28 km away and is easily reached by car or by train from Rossio Station.

We love Sintra most on foggy days, when humid Atlantic air climbs the slopes of the Serra de Sintra, cooling as it rises until its vapor condenses into mist. You can walk along the ramparts of the Moorish castle as if you had slipped back to the eighth century, with no trace of the modern world on the horizon. 

The Moorish castle

Climb the short kilometer that separates the castle from the Pena Palace, and you travel through eleven centuries, arriving in a setting worthy of a nineteenth-century fairy tale.

The Pena Palace

First day

Arrive at Palácio da Pena as early as possible to avoid the crowds. Built in the 1840s by King Ferdinand II on the ruins of a fifteenth-century convent, the palace crowns the Serra de Sintra with Romantic splendor. On clear days, the view stretches all the way to the Bay of Cascais. Tradition holds that from these heights, King Manuel I glimpsed the arrival of Vasco da Gama’s battered fleet returning from its first voyage to India.

The palace is a colorful blend of Moorish, Manueline, and Gothic styles. One of its many curiosities is a sculpture of the Monstrengo, the mythical sea creature said to guard the Cape of Good Hope at the southern tip of Africa from Portuguese sailors.

When Ferdinand II acquired the estate in 1838, the mountain was largely bare. He planted thousands of trees—sequoias from North America, Japanese cedars, camellias from China—creating a forest of luxuriant diversity. In the Valley of the Ferns, enormous tree ferns imported from Australia flourish in Sintra’s cool, misty climate.

If time allows, visit the Countess of Edla’s Chalet. After Queen Maria II’s death in 1853, Ferdinand fell in love with the opera singer Elise Hensler, whom he married in 1869. He built her a romantic Alpine-style chalet, now beautifully restored, an intimate testament to their unlikely love story.

Monserrate

From Pena, descend through the forest toward the western slopes of the Serra, to the Monserrate Palace. The name comes from a small sixteenth-century hermitage dedicated to Our Lady of Monserrate. In the late eighteenth century, the estate was leased first to the English merchant Gerard Devisme and later to William Beckford, a writer and heir to a vast Caribbean sugar fortune. After Beckford returned to England, the property gradually fell into disrepair. By the time Lord Byron visited in 1808, it had become a romantic ruin.

The estate was later purchased by the English collector Sir Francis Cook, who in 1856 hired architect James Knowles to create an elaborate palace combining Gothic, Moorish, Mughal, and Indian styles. The palace rises amid botanical gardens filled with plants gathered from around the world.

Seteais

After wandering through Monserrate’s lush gardens, it may be time for a refreshment: perhaps a chilled white Port at the nearby Seteais Palace. The origin of its name, meaning “seven signs,” has been lost to time.

The palace was built in the 1780s by the Dutch consul Daniel Gildemeester, who made his fortune as part of a merchant group with exclusive rights to import and sell tobacco. After returning to Holland, he sold the estate to the Viscount of Marialva, who expanded the palace, adding a triumphal arch in 1802 to mark a royal visit by the future King João VI of Portugal. Since 1954, the palace has operated as a luxury hotel, preserving the quiet elegance of Sintra’s aristocratic history.

Praia da Adraga and Azenhas do Mar

From Seteais, head west toward the Atlantic. In summer, finish your day with dinner by the sea at the beachside restaurant on Praia da Adraga. It’s a simple place serving grilled fish, but the catch is exceptionally fresh. Start with percebes or clams, and pair your meal with wine from the nearby Colares region.

If time allows, stop before dinner at Azenhas do Mar, a small village perched on cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. Here stands one of Portugal’s most famous beach houses, easily recognized by its white roofs. It was designed by Raúl Lino, the architect who codified Portuguese vernacular architecture and created archetypes that remain influential today.

Spending two or three more days in Sintra

After a day exploring Sintra’s Romantic palaces and Atlantic views, the following days reveal an older and more intimate side of the region.

Sintra National Palace

The Sintra National Palace

The Sintra National Palace, originally a Moorish palace, was gradually transformed after the conquest of Sintra in 1147. It later became a favored summer retreat for Portuguese royalty seeking relief from Lisbon’s heat. Its distinctive twin chimneys hint at the grand banquets once held here.


The building was extensively remodeled at the end of the fifteenth century by King Manuel I. Yet traces of its Moorish heritage remain in the geometric decoration, inner courtyards, and windows adorned with floral motifs. The nineteenth-century art historian Joaquim de Vasconcelos described the palace as “a veritable museum of the rarest and oldest azulejos in high relief that we possess.”

Among the many rooms, two are particularly memorable. The first is the Sala das Pegas, or Magpie Room, a playful reminder of King John I’s indiscretions. Queen Philippa of Lancaster caught the king kissing one of her ladies-in-waiting. He protested that it was done por bem—his intentions were good—but the episode became the talk of the court. To silence the gossip, the king ordered the ceiling painted with 136 magpies, one for every lady of the court, each bearing the words por bem in its beak.

The second is the Sala de Armas. King Manuel I commissioned a display of the coats of arms of noble families who had distinguished themselves in battle. Their heraldic insignia honored past achievements and reminded their sons and grandsons of their duty to defend the kingdom.

The palace also witnessed darker chapters of Portuguese history. Here, the young King Sebastião, only sixteen, held his final council before leading the Portuguese nobility on the ill-fated campaign to Morocco. He died in 1578 at the Battle of Alcácer Quibir, a disaster that ushered in sixty years of Spanish rule.

A century later, another monarch met a quieter fate within these walls. Afonso VI, crippled by a paralytic seizure, was overthrown in a coup led by his brother, the future Peter II. His wife, the beautiful Marie Françoise of Savoy, had their unconsummated marriage annulled and married Peter. Afonso spent the last nine years of his life confined in the palace, where he died in 1683.

Writing in 1903, the Count of Sabugosa saw the palace as a reflection of Portugal itself, where Celtic, Gothic, Arab, and other traditions blended into a spirit of “imagination, poetry, enthusiasm, and dreamy melancholy.”

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira

Our next stop is Quinta da Regaleira. Its palace was built between 1904 and 1910 by António Monteiro, a Portuguese businessman born in Brazil and nicknamed as Monteiro dos Milhões, “Monteiro the Millionaire.” Fascinated by alchemy, Freemasonry, the Knights Templar, Rosicrucianism, and symbolism, Monteiro designed the estate to reflect these esoteric interests.

The gardens unfold as a symbolic journey through caves, towers, lakes, hidden tunnels, and secret doors. The Initiation Well is an inverted tower with a spiral staircase descending deep into the earth. Its nine landings are often interpreted as alluding to the nine circles of Hell, the nine levels of Purgatory, and the nine heavens described in Dante’s Divine Comedy.

Capuchos Convent

It is now time to move from extravagance to austerity. The Convento dos Capuchos, founded in 1560, belonged to the Capuchin branch of the Franciscans, one of the most austere religious orders in early modern Europe. The monks lived within a small stone complex, sleeping on bare boards in tiny cells lined with cork for insulation. It is said that King Dom Sebastião, deeply religious, occasionally left the opulent court to seek spiritual counsel and reflection at this spartan convent.

Not all convents practiced such austerity. Many became famous for their sweets. According to local tradition, Friar João da Anunciação created a recipe for queijadas at the Penha Longa convent in the thirteenth century. These small tartlets have a crisp shell made from flour, lard, water, and salt. The filling combines requeijão (a ricotta-style cheese) and egg yolks with two ingredients that became plentiful in the fifteenth century: sugar and cinnamon.

Sintra residents take their queijadas seriously. An association certifies producers who follow the traditional recipe. You can taste them at Casa do Preto, Pastelaria Gregório, or Piriquita—each slightly different, yet equally delightful. At Piriquita, you will also find another local specialty: the famous travesseiros, pillow-shaped pastries filled with almond and egg cream.

Colares

From the forests of Sintra, the land descends toward the Atlantic vineyards of Colares, a small but historically important wine region. In the second half of the nineteenth century, phylloxera devastated European vineyards by attacking vine roots. Most regions survived only by grafting European vines onto resistant American rootstocks. Colares is a rare exception: planted in deep sandy soils where phylloxera cannot reach, its vines remain ungrafted to this day.

Colares wines, made from the white Malvasia and the red Ramisco, are renowned for their exceptional longevity. The Adega Regional de Colares cooperative and Viúva Gomes are both worth visiting for a tasting of their distinctive wines.

The quaintest way to reach Colares is aboard the historic tram that has connected Sintra to the nearby beach of Praia das Maçãs since 1905. The ride is slow and charmingly uncomfortable, but memorable.

Cabo da Roca

Cabo da Roca

Another remarkable place to visit is Cabo da Roca, long regarded as the edge of the world. In the first century the Greek geographer Strabo described this coast as the western limit of the inhabited world. Centuries later, the poet Luís Vaz de Camões immortalized it as the place “where the land ends and the sea begins.”

The Queluz Palace

Queluz

On the way back to Lisbon, consider stopping at Queluz, home to the vibrant Queluz National Palace, an elegant Rococo summer residence built in the mid-eighteenth century for Peter III, husband of Queen Maria I.

Just across from the palace, you can stay at the Pousada Palácio de Queluz, a charming historic hotel.

A Final Thought

You need three or four days to see all that the Sintra region has to offer. If you only have one day, resist the urge to rush from site to site.

Visiting Sintra is stepping back to an era when life unfolded slowly. More than any monument, it is the feeling the place evokes—the sense of living in a different time—that makes Sintra unforgettable.

Two fabulous days in Lisbon

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The Romans called it Felicitas Julia, a city so blessed it deserved Julius Caesar’s protection. Those blessings endure: a mild climate, a deep river that flows serenely to the sea, a natural harbor that shelters ships from Atlantic storms, and hills that reach for the sky.

In 1620, Friar Nicolau de Oliveira wrote that Lisbon, like Rome, has seven hills. In truth, there are only three major elevations: the castle hill, Graça, and Bairro Alto. But in spirit, he was right: the streets rise and fall so much that, in the early 20th century, trams and elevators were built to help residents get around.

First Day

Begin your visit at St. George’s Castle. In the twelfth century, most of Lisbon lay within its walls. Below lies Alfama, whose Arabic name survived the city’s conquest by Portugal’s first king, Dom Afonso Henriques, in 1147. According to legend, a knight called Martim Moniz sacrificed his life, wedging his body in the castle gate so his fellow soldiers could break through. A square at the foot of the hill bears his name.

By the eighteenth century, Alfama was a poor neighborhood. The wealthy had relocated to Baixa, Bairro Alto, and Chiado. The 1755 earthquake devastated much of Lisbon but spared Alfama, a survival some interpreted as divine justice.

It is easy to get lost in Alfama’s winding streets lined with cobblestones, tile facades, and marble thresholds. A simple rule will help you find your way: uphill leads to the castle, downhill to the city center. 

From the castle walls, the Tagus River dominates the horizon. Below lies Terreiro do Paço, the courtyard of the royal palace destroyed by the earthquake.  Squint and you might imagine Baroque carriages arriving with courtiers seeking the king’s favor.

For a leisurely lunch, walk toward the Pantheon, a monumental church whose construction spanned more than three centuries. Nearby, Solo, inside the Santa Clara 1738 hotel, offers refined Portuguese cuisine made with the finest ingredients and served in an elegant setting. 

After lunch, continue to Terreiro do Paço. At the river’s edge stands Cais das Colunas, the dock marked by two marble pillars where visitors once arrived by ship. Before air travel, this was Lisbon’s grand entrance. In the center of the square, the equestrian statue of King Dom José I greets you.

Walk toward the triumphal arch at the entrance of Augusta Street, named for one of the king’s daughters. You can take an elevator to the top for superb views. To the west stretches the Tagus River; to the east lies the orderly grid of the Baixa district, built after the earthquake under the direction of the king’s prime minister, the Marquis of Pombal. 

The streets were organized by trade. In Rua do Ouro and Rua da Prata (Gold and Silver Streets), jewelers worked the precious metals arriving from Brazil. Merchants on Rua dos Fanqueiros sold woolen cloth, while Rua dos Correeiros specialized in leather equipment for horses and carriages. 

From there, walk to Rossio. On the way, stop at Largo de São Domingos to savor a glass of ginjinha, the sweet cherry liqueur beloved by poet Fernando Pessoa. 

Next, climb to Chiado for a pastel de nata at Manteigaria, where the crust is perfectly crisp and the custard delicately perfumed with lemon. Eat only one. Then cross to the Hotel do Bairro Alto terrace for a second. Try not to let the sweeping view cloud your judgment: which pastry wins your favor? The terrace is a wonderful place to rest before dinner. We include a list of restaurant suggestions below.

After dark, nothing expresses Lisbon’s soul like fado. Dressed in black, singers are accompanied by classical and Portuguese guitars, the latter a 12-string instrument with a distinctive mournful sound. Out of respect for the music, the audience is asked to remain silent. The singers’ voices hover between notes, producing pitches that a piano cannot play. They slow or quicken the tempo, confident that the musicians will follow. We are especially fond of the young fadista Beatriz Felício. If she is performing, don’t miss her.

Second day

Start the day at the Time Out market. Many come for a quick meal, but you’re here to visit the adjacent farmers’ market. Browse the seasonal fruits and vegetables on display, then stop by the fish stall, which showcases some of the world’s freshest fish. 

If you need refreshment, Bar da Odete offers a wonderful range of wines by the glass, curated by enologist Frederico Vilar Gomes. You can buy some of these wines at Garrafeira Nacional, a shop inside the market.

Continue toward Belém to visit the Belém Tower, an ornate fortress built to defend Lisbon from pirates, yet making the city even more alluring. Before the 1755 earthquake, the tower stood in the middle of the river rather than near the shore.

To the south stands the Monument to the Discoveries, a procession of stone figures led by Prince Henry the Navigator. Beginning in the 1420s, Portuguese sailors departed from Restelo into the unknown in ships called caravels, which, for the first time, could tack to sail against the wind. 

In his epic poem Os Lusíadas, Luís Vaz de Camões imagines an old man on the shore warning that the quest for glory would bring suffering rather than triumph. In material terms, the discoveries were an extraordinary success. Vasco da Gama reached India, opening a sea route for the spice trade. Cabral reached Brazil, and ships soon returned to Lisbon laden first with brazilwood and, later, with gold. Yet these riches came at a terrible human cost. Many sailors perished in shipwrecks or from diseases, especially scurvy, caused by months at sea without fresh provisions, living on little more than hard biscuit.

Just to the east rises the magnificent Jerónimos Monastery, built with the wealth of the maritime empire. Its Manueline architecture blends late Gothic style with nautical motifs. Inside are the tombs of kings and queens, as well as Vasco da Gama and Luís Vaz de Camões.

To the north is the Cultural Center of Belém, a modern art complex built from stone from the same quarry as the monastery. Its concerts and exhibitions are worth checking out.

If you crave grilled fish, the modest O Último Porto, open only for lunch and patronized mostly by locals, serves fresh fish grilled to perfection. Robalo is always a great choice, and the mullets are divine.  

Skip dessert. You must return to Belém for the city’s most famous custard, the Pastel de Belém. The bakery has produced them since 1837, using a secret recipe shared by monks after the dissolution of the religious orders in 1834. Enjoy one warm pastry dusted with cinnamon, a fragrant echo of the spice trade that enriched Portugal. Now that you have tasted the city’s most celebrated pasteis de nata, which is your favorite? 

End the day at MAAT, the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology. It offers interesting exhibitions and a roof that is one of the finest places to watch the sunset in Lisbon. As the sun sinks into the Atlantic, Lisbon’s hills glow amber, the color of the gold that once made it rich.

Here are some practical suggestions

Where to stay

Our favorite place to stay in Lisbon is Santa Clara 1728, a small hotel that exudes tranquility and elegance. It is part of Silent Living, a unique collection of hotels designed to help guests reconnect with place and nature.

The Pestana Palace, built around an early-20th-century palace, is another favorite. Set away from the center and surrounded by gardens, it offers a peaceful respite from the city’s bustle.

The Ritz Four Seasons is a mid-century modern landmark that provides classic old-world luxury.

Hotel do Bairro Alto, in the heart of Chiado, combines a central location with excellent service.

Where to eat

Not long ago, one could walk into almost any restaurant and enjoy an honest, modestly priced meal of local food and wine. Today, many restaurants cater primarily to tourists. To taste authentic cuisine, you need guidance, but rest assured, we’re here to provide it.

Lisbon’s fine-dining scene is vibrant. Belcanto, led by José Avillez, has elevated Portuguese cuisine while staying true to its roots. His recent book on Portuguese cuisine makes a wonderful gift for a gourmet friend. Marlene, by chef Marlene Vieira, reinterprets tradition with imagination and finesse. Loco, led by chef Alexandre Silva, offers exuberantly creative dishes made with local ingredients.

Beyond the Michelin constellation, many excellent restaurants await discovery. We mentioned two of our favorites in the main text. Solo offers a lunch menu where each dish is crafted from pristine organic ingredients sourced from Casa no Tempo. Último Porto is a rustic restaurant known for perfectly grilled fish.

Zun Zum, Marlene Vieira’s bistro, showcases superb Portuguese ingredients prepared with inventiveness. Try their signature dish: “filhoses de berbigão,” large cockles served on star-shaped fried dough filled with a cream made from cockle broth, coriander, and lemon.

For seafood, Cervejaria Ramiro remains our top choice. It is noisy and crowded, but it is worth it. Reservations are not accepted, so arrive early. Do not miss the clams à Bulhão Pato, a classic of Portuguese cuisine.

Tasca da Esquina, by Vítor Sobral, consistently serves excellent interpretations of traditional dishes.

Canalha offers impeccable seasonal ingredients, prepared with precision. This acclaimed bistro is led by chef João Rodrigues, who left his Michelin stars behind to cook simple, deeply satisfying food. 

Casa Tradição offers inventive takes on classic recipes by Samuel Mota, a chef who trained at Belcanto.

Our favorite vegetarian restaurant is Touta, led by Lebanese chef Cynthia Bitar.

Other favorites include Belmiro (excellent empadas and rice dishes), Magano, Ofício, Prado, and Salsa e Coentros.

For wine lovers, we recommend a visit to Quinta de Chocapalha, a superb producer near Lisbon.

Museums

The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum has one of the world’s finest private art collections, reflecting the founder’s motto: “only the best.” A visit is a journey spanning 5,000 years of human creativity. Among the collection’s highlights is Almada Negreiros’ portrait of the poet Fernando Pessoa.

Two major museums are currently closed for renovations. The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga preserves Portugal’s most important collection of paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts. Housed in a former convent, Museu Nacional do Azulejo offers a collection of five centuries of Portuguese tile art, including a breathtaking panoramic panel of the city before the 1755 earthquake.

Shopping

We love Vista Alegre, a company that has produced beautiful porcelain since 1824. Its stores are spread throughout the city, with the most iconic located in Chiado. Nearby is Cutipol, a producer of elegant cutlery.

A Vida Portuguesa offers a carefully curated selection of artisanal products made with exceptional craftsmanship. 

Reverso is a jewelry gallery featuring whimsical, elegant modern pieces.

Activities for kids

A visit to Lisbon’s outstanding Oceanarium is a perfect activity not only for kids but for anyone interested in the mysteries of the ocean and the protection of marine ecosystems.

Cruising the Tagus River aboard Santa Fé, a beautifully restored vintage boat, is one of the best ways to see the city. 

Jezzus is a great place for pizza, a meal that kids are likely to enjoy.

Day trips

There are several historical towns on the outskirts of Lisbon that are well worth visiting. Sintra, once the summer residence of the Portuguese kings, is a fairy-tale village crowned by a Moorish castle and dotted with several enchanting palaces. Queluz offers a graceful palace with elegant gardens inspired by Versailles.

Mafra stands on a grander scale. This vast convent, built with the wealth of Portugal’s maritime empire, houses one of the world’s most beautiful libraries. The convent’s construction inspired José Saramago’s celebrated novel Baltasar and Blimunda, published in 1982—a book that will enrich any visit to Mafra.

And then there is Óbidos, a perfectly preserved medieval town, offered by King Dom Dinis to his bride, Isabel of Aragon.

Revisiting Santa Clara

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If god is in the details, then Santa Clara, our favorite hotel in Lisbon, is truly blessed. We arrived on a Friday afternoon, weary from a bumper-car-like ride through the city’s busy streets. As soon as we entered Santa Clara, a sense of calm embraced us.

We climbed the stairs slowly, savoring each step. The old lioz, the marble of Lisbon, turned pale by the passage of time blends seamlessly with the soft pink of the newer lioz, creating harmony between past and present.

Our bedroom felt like home. A spacious foyer welcomed us with a plush sofa and a generous bowl of ripe cherries. From the west-facing windows, Lisbon unfolds in all its grandeur: the Pantheon’s majestic dome rising above a sea of orange rooftops, its white stone luminous against the blue shimmer of the Tagus River. More than three centuries in the making, the Pantheon reminds us that some things are worth the wait.

To the east, the bathroom windows open to a tranquil garden planted with lemon trees, where a small choir of birds greeted us. 

The walls and closets are painted in a soft grey that is the perfect frame for the Pantheon’s radiant white. A simple geometry gives the room a sense of serenity. Pine planks draw the eye outward, to views framed by curtains that sway like skirts of ballet dancers caught in a gentle breeze.

In the bathroom, a grand bathtub, hewn from a single block of marble, stands beside two cylindrical basins sculpted from solid stone. Handmade tiles catch and scatter the light, while a thin line of marble placed at eye level evokes a far-off horizon, separating earth from sky.

After dinner, we retired to our room with the sense of being where we belonged. In the morning, sunlight poured in—joyous and bright. We made our way to breakfast—coffee, fresh bread, sweet fruit, creamy yogurt, eggs, and wild mushrooms. We lingered at the table, reluctant to part with this place that is so quietly beautiful.

Santa Clara 1728 is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128 in Lisbon, tel. 964 362 816, email booking@silentliving.pt. Click here for the hotel website.

Dining at Ceia with Alex Atala

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Dining at Ceia is always a singular experience, but even more so when shared with the legendary Brazilian chef Alex Atala, seated humbly among the guests as if he were a mere mortal.

Lisbon’s most elegant table was adorned with the bark of a cork tree, harvested on the thirtieth anniversary of its growth. Draped in moss, mushrooms, and delicate flowers, it set the stage for a menu designed by chef Renato Bonfim and inspired by Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights.

The meal began with a whisper—an ethereal broth of ginger and algae, offering no hint of the wonders to come. A bowl soon appeared, strewn with moss and topped with chopsticks decorated with flowers. Nestled beneath the blossoms was a sublime tartare of carabineiros, the crimson prawns of the Algarve. “I was trained as a Bocusian,” Atala said, referring to Paul Bocuse, the patriarch of nouvelle cuisine. “I expect the food to be on the plate, but here, the food is beyond the plate.” A joyful Blanc de Noirs from Bairrada, fittingly named Dinamite, kept us good company.

Then came Water: a delicious composition of tomato, coriander oil, and a sorbet of toasted bread and garlic. Kristin Liebold, the gracious maître d’, poured glasses of Tepache she had crafted herself—a lightly fermented pineapple elixir that brightened the palate.

Another delight soon followed: slices of savory garlic cheesecake, adorned with white blossoms, served with perfectly fried hake from the Azores. The fish was prepared in a traditional style:  marinated in milk, lemon, salt, and pepper, then delicately fried in tempura batter. 

Atala reflected on how his time in Italy had taught him the importance of simplicity and repetition in dishes like fried fish. “Every Sunday, the mother cooks for the family,” he said, “but when the nonna (grandmother) prepares the same dish, it becomes a feast. The ingredients don’t change—but the nonna brings a deeper understanding, born of repetition and a lifetime of attention to detail.”

An exquisite wine, whimsically called Viagem ao Princípio do Mundo (journey to the beginning of the world), filled our glasses. It is made with Alvarinho grapes grown in Melgaço and aged in sherry casks.

We were then invited into the garden, where, under flickering candlelight, oysters from Setúbal arrived dressed in spinach and algae, gently cooked in a Bulhão Pato style. Atala spoke about the importance of authenticity and of how this dish marries local ingredients and time-honored techniques with a sense of modernity.

Back in the dining room, the next course arrived: cordyceps mushrooms cleverly disguised as pasta. They were glazed in aged balsamic and served with a warm, buttery brioche, the perfect partner to their umami taste. A luminous white wine from António Madeira in the Dão lent the moment a festive air.

The final savory dish was a richly flavored wild boar terrine, served with oven-cooked rice and bread made from roasted quiabos (okra).

Dessert began with a leche de tigre jelly, adorned with nasturtiums and elderflower. Then came a mousse sculpted in the shape of Silent Living’s Herdade no Tempo, the estate that supplied much of the pristine produce featured throughout the meal. The mousse was encircled by an orchestra of cherries: fresh, roasted, and infused with lemon. 

A 2000 vintage Port crowned an unforgettable meal that Renato Bonfim and his youthful brigade cooked for Alex Atala, a philosopher-chef who sees food in its fullness: as ingredient and craft, as joy and communion.

Ceia is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128. Lisbon. Click here for the restaurant’s website.

Savoring pasteis de nata at Hotel do Bairro Alto

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In Lisbon, pastéis de nata inspire near-religious devotion. And with good reason–these delicate tarts, made of flaky layers of puff pastry and filled with a luscious cream of eggs and milk, offer a glimpse of heaven on earth.

Some Lisboetas are devoted to a neighborhood pastry shop that proudly displays the words Fabrico Próprio on its façade, signaling that its pastries are made in-house. But the city’s most revered pastry sanctuary is the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, which has been drawing pilgrims since it first opened its doors in 1834.

Manteigaria is a more recent cult whose crisp, lemon-kissed tarts have earned a loyal following. Its original Chiado location has become a popular pastry shrine.

There is also Pastelaria Aloma, a bakery in Campo d’Ourique, which rose to fame after winning national competitions in 2012 and 2013.

Just when we thought we had tasted all the city’s holy pastries, we stumbled upon a new revelation, hidden in plain sight at the recently renovated Hotel do Bairro Alto. Its pastéis are extraordinary. The custard, radiant yellow and delicately scented, has just the right touch of sweetness. The crust is golden, crisp, and exquisitely flaky with seven layers that echo Lisbon’s seven hills.

When we asked the servers about the recipe’s ingredients, they nodded politely and walked away. But on the final morning, a waitress slipped us a handwritten note with the ingredients. The secret? The filling is made not with cream, but with milk and cornstarch, lending it an ethereal lightness. The crust’s sublime texture is achieved through a blend of butter and pork lard.

So here is an insider’s tip: if you find yourself near Chiado, step into the Hotel do Bairro Alto and take the elevator to the fifth floor. Settle into the serene terrace overlooking the Tagus River and order some pasteis de nata. As you sit there, savoring these sweet devotions, you’re likely to find yourself at peace.

Hotel do Bairro Alto, Praça Luís de Camões 2, Lisbon, tel. 213 408 288, email: reservations@bairroaltohotel.com. Click here for the hotel’s website.

Miss Can

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When we were young, we spent our summer vacations camping by the sea. We packed cans of berbigão- small, flavorful cockles- and used them to make rice dishes that tasted divine after a swim in the ocean.

Over the years, canned berbigão nearly vanished from store shelves. Fortunately, Miss Can has brought it back, along with various other delicacies. In addition to classics like sardines and tuna, their selection includes razor clams, squid, mussels, octopus, and more.

The brand’s origins date back to 1911, when Alberto Soares Ribeiro established two canning plants—one in Setúbal, near Lisbon, and another in Olhão, Algarve. Like many others, these plants closed their doors during the years of economic turmoil that followed the 1974 revolution. Almost a century later, Alberto’s great-grandson, Tiago Soares Ribeiro, brought the family’s canning legacy back to life. Together with his relatives, Tiago launched Miss Can, a brand dedicated to high-quality, artisanal canned fish.

The rebirth began in 2013 when Tiago started producing small batches of canned fish and selling them from a yellow Piaggio motorcycle in Lisbon’s St. Jorge Castle neighborhood. In 2015, Miss Can received two prestigious awards, enabling Tiago to open a charming eatery near St. Jorge’s Castle, where visitors can experience the exceptional quality of his products.

All the fish, except cod, are sourced from the Portuguese coast. The canning process follows the same traditional method used a century ago. The fish are gently steamed to preserve their texture and natural flavor.

With Miss Can, we can effortlessly create a delicious salad, a rich pasta, or a comforting rice dish that brings back the taste of our carefree vacations by the sea.

You can sample Miss Can’s products at Largo do Contador Mor, 17 Castelo in Lisbon. Miss Can is available in the U.S. at World Market stores. Click here for Miss Can’s website.

The pleasures of a Solo lunch

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To find the finest place for lunch in Lisbon, you must head toward the majestic Pantheon, a baroque limestone masterpiece that took three centuries to build. The adjacent plaza, Campo de Santa Clara, overlooks the “sea of straw,’’ the stretch of the Tagus River that reflects the golden sunlight, resembling a field of wheat.

A short walk leads you to number 128, where the understated entrance of the elegant Santa Clara 1728 hotel awaits. From Tuesdays to Saturdays, the hotel’s dining room, home to the renowned Ceia restaurant, transforms into a lunch haven called Solo.

The meal begins with the comforting aroma of warm, house-made sourdough bread served with creamy butter.  It continues with a starter and main course paired with a glass of wine and ends with dessert. The menu is updated every two to three weeks to reflect what is seasonal.

The starters are a testament to culinary finesse, featuring options like delicate Hamachi kissed with ponzu and coriander, requeijão–a soft cheese from the Estrela mountain–adorned with grapes and a touch of balsamic vinegar, or duck escabeche infused with the sweetness of ripe tomatoes.

The main courses are equally enticing, including choices like tender roast beef accompanied by grilled lettuce hearts and anchovy vinaigrette, creamy orzo with pumpkin, spinach, and truffles, or line-caught fish paired with pumpkin, hazelnut, and a rich bouillabaisse.

For the sweet ending, will you choose the tropical freshness of Azorean pineapple with yuzu syrup and finger lime? Or the indulgent richness of chocolate ganache with seasonal fruits?

Sharing the experience with a friend doubles the delight. The chef can split two menus, letting you savor two different starters, main courses, and desserts.

Solo’s exceptional cuisine is rooted in its “soil to table” philosophy. Most ingredients are sourced from Herdade no Tempo, a farm in Alentejo that uses regenerative and holistic practices to nurture the soil and support biodiversity. Chef Renato Bonfim and his team transform these pristine ingredients into dishes that celebrate the gifts of nature and the joy of cooking. 

From the artful presentation to the gracious service and intimate ambiance, every detail at Solo turns lunch into an experience that lingers in our memory long after the last bite.

Solo is located at Campo de Santa Clara, 128. Lisbon. Click here for the restaurant’s website.

Tradition and modernity at Casa Tradição

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Casa Tradição is located near Lisbon’s old cathedral, a neighborhood rarely visited by locals. The restaurant has rustic decor, so we went in expecting a traditional meal. But our waiter mentioned a tasting menu, and we tried it.

Dinner began with an assortment of bread served with creamy nut butter and fragrant olive oil from Porto de Mós, the hometown of the restaurant’s chef, Samuel Mota.

Then, the unexpected delights started. First, a martini glass brimming with ice held a slice of apple marinated in citrus and spices, evoking the essence of a frozen sangria. Then, a crisp mini baguette layered with Serra cheese and exquisite Pata Negra prosciutto. 

But the clearest sign that this would be a memorable night came next: a pastry resembling a pastel de nata crowned with smoked codfish and filled with a blend that echoes the flavors of traditional creamed codfish.

We were still recovering from this moment of deliciousness when we were served a cabbage tempura stuffed with migas made from beans and olives. The rich and satisfying taste was reminiscent of a Portuguese sausage called alheira. 

The seafood entrée was stunning: a delicately cooked large Algarve shrimp served with a broth and fermented lupini beans. The fish course was a perfectly cooked corvina with asparagus and açorda made with fish roe.

The seventh step to culinary heaven was faux cabidela rice. Traditionally made with vinegar and chicken blood, it was ingeniously reimagined as a beetroot risotto, subtly enhanced with raspberry vinaigrette, and served with succulent guineafowl cooked with bacon.

The meal concluded with a moist pão de ló and a foam crafted from Serra cheese. Chef Samuel’s five-year tenure at the acclaimed Belcanto helped prepare him to follow his imagination. Though rooted in tradition, his creations brim with innovative, delicious culinary ideas.

Casa Tradição is located at Travessa do Almargem, n. 4, Lisbon, tel. 967-340-913. Click here for their website.

Touta, the sensuous cuisine of Lebanon in Lisbon

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We heard from the culinary rumor mill that a famous Lebanese chef had moved to Lisbon and opened a restaurant called Touta. So, on a warm spring evening, we climbed the hill from Estrela to Campo de Ourique to try it out.

Rita Abou Ghazaly welcomed us into the gracious dining room decorated with Middle Eastern motifs. She served us hibiscus and rose-petal kombucha while Lebanese music filled the air with the same microtones we hear in fado.  

Dinner started with a basket of Lebanese bread and cheese bonbons—crispy cheese treats wrapped in phyllo dough. Next came a plate of hummus, a combination of chickpeas and tahini sauce that is a staple of Middle Eastern cuisine. This rendition was the best we ever tried. It was topped with soujak meat, pickles, and aquafaba, a sumptuous emulsion of chickpea water that resembles whipped egg whites. It was quickly followed by grilled cabbage with lentils and beetroots delicately seasoned with cured lemons. 

We tried a delicious soup made with a local fish called mero. It reminded us of cação soup, a traditional Alentejo recipe. Finally, we had a spectacular grilled black pork served with black beans, carob marshmallows, and a barbecue sauce made from molasses. Dessert was a simply perfect sweet croquette. 

“What made you decide to open a restaurant in Lisbon?” we asked Rita. “Ask Waël,” Rita said, laughing, “it’s all his doing.” Waël Haddad told us he has had a crush on Lisbon since his first visit ten years ago. “I kept returning and brought my friend Rita and my cousin Touta, a celebrated Lebanese chef. With every visit, our love for the city deepened, and so we started looking for a restaurant location. We explored various neighborhoods until we stumbled upon this perfect spot with a ‘for sale’ sign. Now, here we are, living our dream.”

Chef Cynthia Bitar, affectionately known as Touta, came to greet us. She inherited her passion for cooking from her mother, a famous Middle East caterer. Touta has always been obsessed with cooking.  “When I was a child and went on play dates, I often cooked in my friend’s kitchens. I think about food during the day and dream about it at night.” 

She returned to her family’s catering business after training at the Paul Bocuse Academy in Lyon. But, like Waël and Rita, Touta fell for Lisbon’s charms. She was drawn to the similarity between Lebanese and Portuguese cuisines, the quality of local ingredients, and the warmth of the people. “I found amazing produce in the farmers markets. Try this carrot.” She sliced a small carrot in half so we could experience its aroma and enjoy its sweet taste.” 

Touta took us to the grocery store at the back of the restaurant. Its shelves are full of products from Lebanon and jars with pickles, jams, fermented drinks, and preserved citruses that she prepared. We stayed past midnight, bewitched by Touta’s sensuous cuisine, sampling everything from molasses and infusions to spices like sumac and za’atar.  

In the 15th and 16th centuries, trade with Africa, Asia, and South America turned Lisbon into a hub for global talent. The diverse influx of people profoundly influenced Portuguese culture, cuisine, and art. It is wonderful to see Lisbon once more attracting people who will bring the city to new heights.  Welcome, Waël, Rita, and Touta!

Touta is located at Rua Domingos Sequeira 38 in Lisbon 960 49 49 49. Click here to go to the restaurant’s website.

St. George’s castle

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If you’re up for a climb in Lisbon, we recommend visiting St. George’s castle. You can start at the bottom of the hill and go up the old meandering streets of Alfama, the only neighborhood that survived the 1755 earthquake.

At almost every corner, someone sells glasses of ginginha, a delightful liquor made from sour cherries. But it is unbecoming to drink ginginha from plastic glasses. We prefer to get it at “A Ginginha” in Largo São Domingos, where they’ve served it in proper glasses since 1840.  

It’s worthwhile to buy the ticket to enter the castle. However, keep your expectations low–a first sight, there isn’t much to see. A bronze statue of Dom Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, who conquered the castle from the Moors in 1147. A marble statue of Dom Manuel, the monarch who oversaw the golden age of discoveries by Portuguese navigators. Fountains whose water has run dry, broken marble columns, and cannons that are no longer battle-ready lie around the castle, all in medieval disarray. There are pines and olive trees, their branches sought by vain peacocks searching for a thrill.

The castle was built and rebuilt over centuries, first with cement and stone and then with brick and mortar. The layers of the imposing walls read like a diary of all those who lived here: Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Moors, and Portuguese. 

What the castle offers are magnificent views of Lisbon. The city lies at our feet, making us feel like royalty—scratch your skin, and surely blue blood will trickle out. A map made out of tiles shows us the lay of the land. Nearby there are benches inscribed with the words of Sophia de Mello Breyner. What a beautiful idea to carve in stone the words of a poet!

We stroll around the castle until the sun sets down. Only then do we go downhill. Be careful because the cobblestones are slippery. And there’s no need to rush. There’s plenty of time to get to Largo de São Domingos and enjoy a glass of ginginha.

You can get tickets online at the castle’s website, here.